TOTO Ultramax II, MS604114CEFG toilet reviews & pictures

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Terry

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Watersense requires a 350 gram rating. It's doubtfull that you would notice a difference.
I've been selling plenty of both.

We've always felt that 500 was very good. It's nice to have bowl rinse too.
 

Rdonchez

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Is there a difference in the total distance in the wall between the Ultramax II and Drake II (i.e. how far the toilet sticks out?). Also, how real are leaking problems with two piece tanks - enough to go one piece or is it not a real concern? Thanks again for all the help.
 

Terry

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The total distance front to back is similar.

Of course there is less that can go wrong with the one-piece design, but the two piece mounting has been fine too.
I do like being able to pull a bowl from the box and just stick it on the wax though. That's pretty nice. No worry about cleaning between the two parts either.
 

Dbett

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So three down and one to go...I've saved the one I need to re-pipe the supply line. The first one in the basement was a Toto "Ultimate." It's serviceable, but I'm glad I changed the remaining three to the Ultramax II.

I think the installs went pretty well - although not a single mounting flange was the proper height. Two were too low (double wax rings) and the basement one was too high.

These are the two upstairs Ultramax II's:

(1) Master. This one had the supply line about 5" off center. The cover piece just touches the toilet.



(2) Hall. This one was about 5 1/2" off center.
 
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Lkstaack

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I think the Ultramax II with CEFIONTECT is the better value.
If you don't like a taller bowl, then getting the standard height Ultramax with SG would make sense too.

Would the Ultramax II be a good choice for my petite wife? She is about 5' tall. Does the shorter Ultramax I flush as well? What is the difference between elongated bowls and round ones?
 

Jadnashua

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Any male in the house will much prefer an elongated toilet! Essentially all commercial toilets are elongated for that reason. Round is just that, a much more rounder toilet - elongated is more egg shaped, with the narrower portion to the front.Height wise, a normal dining room chair is in the order of 18-19" high at the seat, a toilet, even an ADA height one, is in the same range (often the lower end, though). So, the best thing is to sit on a chair of the same height as the toilet of interest (if you can't find one to try), and then picture yourself doing your business. Most people like the taller seat height, but there are exceptions. It gets to be more of a factor as you get older and your knees and back don't like trying to get up from those low to the ground.
 

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Hello,
I have read posts on Terry's sites for years, but the time has finally come to purchase a new toilet and I had a couple of questions. I have read every post and review on every toilet I am interested in and have narrowed it down to the Drake II or Ultramax II. I like the one piece Ultramax II design the best. The question I have is about the mounting of the Ultramax II. (I'll ask my Drake II question on that thread.) I have a standard 12" flange from the wall. I know the Drake II only comes in a standard 12" rough, but the Ultramax II is adjustable. The picture I saw of the adjustable mounting plate showed 2 more bolts into the tile behind the flange to hold it in place. I also have a tile bathroom and am not looking to drill additional holes in the tile if it can be avoided. I too am looking for a simple POP AND DROP installation. Is this possible with the Ultramax II with a 12" rough or will have drill the additional holes for mounting? If so what would be the correct part number for that model with C2 and SG in colonial white? Also I added my tile during a bathroom remodel so it raised the height of the floor 1/2" above the flange. Must I use a double wax ring (which I am using now) or will a standard ring work? I just don't want to have excess wax that could get into the pipe and affect flushing if it is not needed.
 

Terry

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The Ultramax II works on a standard 12" rough and is a standard installation. If you are thinking "Unifit adapter" then you're thinking of a Carlyle with the skirted bowl. The Ultramax II uses the standard watercloset flange in the floor, standard closet bolts and wax. You can pull it out of the box and stick it on the wax. If your flange is lower then the finished floor, you will need to stack two wax rings.

The MS604114CEFG Ultramax II is listed this way
C = Cyclone flush (Double Cyclone)
E = 1.28 gallons per flush
F = Universal Height bowl
G = CEFIONTECT​
 
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ChickenWarrior

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The Ultramax II works on a standard 12" rough and is a standard installation. If you are thinking "Unifit adapter" then you're thinking of a Carlyle with the skirted bowl. The Ultramax II uses the standard watercloset flange in the floor, standard closet bolts and wax. You can pull it out of the box and stick it on the wax. If your flange is lower then the finished floor, you will need to stack two wax rings.

The MS604114CEFG Ultramax II is listed this way
C = Cyclone flush (Double Cyclone)
E = 1.28 gallons per flush
F = Universal Height bowl
G = CEFIONTECT​

Thank you Terry!
 

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What is the minimum rough in that is needed for the Ultramax II.

It doesn't look like I'll have the 12" that the specs call for.
 

Jadnashua

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The spec sheet
says that there's nominally 3/4" behind with a true 12" rough-in. You can often fudge the toilet's position on the flange about 1/4" or so as the outlet horn is smaller than the opening in the flange, and there's some slop in the holes in the toilet mount, so 11" would be pushing it.
 
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Teldeman

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ultramax II

I am looking at MS604114CEFG

Is this the standard height or the higher?

Is this the elongated toilet or not
 

Terry

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This is an elongated bowl,
It's higher then standard height. Sometimes called Universal, Comfort or chair height.
With the seat, it also meets ADA requirements.

ms604_spec_sheet.jpg
 
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Rockstead

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Hi,

Can anyone tell me how will I know if the bolt holes from the toilets i currently have and the size from the back of my current two piece toilet to the wall will work with the Ultramax II?

I am desparate to swap out my 3 builder grade toilets but I am worried about holes not lining up and possibly having to replace some ceramic in all three bathrooms if the bolts don't align and the back of he 1 piece Ultramax II won't meet up with the back of the wall.

Hopefully everything has to meet standard size and this wil be a straight swap.
 

tesla

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I just ordered an Ultramax II. Can someone tell me if the slope of the tank lid prevents a box of kleenex resting there?
 

WJcandee

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Hi, Tesla!

I just did an experiment with a cube-sized box of Kleenex (rather than the rectangle), and it does not slide off. It can move around a bit, but it will sit there.
 

GeorgeCT

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I just ordered an Ultramax II. Can someone tell me if the slope of the tank lid prevents a box of kleenex resting there?

I always keep my Kleenex box on top of the tank...and yes it will sit there.
The toilet seat lid will help keep it there but even if it's down, the box of tissues will stay.

ms604_angle_seat.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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Worst case, and this would work with any toilet, would be to get an anti-slip mat, set it underneath the box, and then it would stay on nearly any toilet lid. These are often sold in auto accessory stores to help keep things stable on the dash, but would work just as well anywhere. They can easily be cut, if needed, so they don't show, if that's desired.
 

GeorgeCT

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GeorgeCT: The symptoms you experienced from the Voreto valve in your picture are exactly why I ripped it out and put in a Korky in my Drake. The 528MP is perfect for our Totos. As you may have read elsewhere on this forum, Toto is now selling basically the 528MP as its Universal Replacement fill valve. The packaging is different and the instructions are more precise, but it's basically the same thing. I'm glad it worked out for you.

wjcandee
Thanks for the heads up. I didn't know TOTO was selling the Korky 528MP as a replacement.
 

WJcandee

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GeorgeCT,

Yeah, they're calling it the TSU99A.X, retail $30, available for more like $21. Still a good bit more than the 528MP at Lowe's. It really is, for the most part, exactly the same valve. To ensure that the settings are uber-precisely-what-they-were-in-the-factory, they give you detailed instructions. They provide a table that shows how many "pegs" high to set the valve (i.e. tank refill level), for each and every Toto toilet, and then instruct you to install the "tamper-proof key" so the valve can't be set to use more water (unless you just peel off the key). Generally, nobody uses that key with the 528, but I guess it's a good way to ensure that the thing stays set exactly the way they would set it at the factory. They also give you this gizmo that adjusts the refill percentage to exactly what it was on the original valve being replaced, rather than the "eyeball it" method that most people use with the 528MP. For anybody who is handy, and who doesn't mind experimenting a bit to get the water level and refill where they should be, all you need is the 528MP. I do respect Toto, however, for trying to make sure that any replacement valve will provide the same level of water savings that came with the toilet.

All-in-all, it's a pretty-smart idea by Toto, and I appreciate their level of precision in foolproofing the settings. One valve on the shelf at the plumbing supply, instead of 20 different types. And it's a Made in US product. Of course, Terry was telling people to do this pretty much as soon as the 582MP came out. Toto finally caught on.
 
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