Toto Drake Wall Gap

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KP Texan

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I'm at the stage in my guest bathroom remodel where I was finally able to install my new Toto Drake (CST744, 1.6 GPF) last night. My issue is that I've got a heck of a gap between the tank and wall. I knew that I was going to have a big gap between the wall and tank due to my 14-1/2" offset from drywall. That being said, I thought it would be closer to a 3-5/8" gap (since spec says 1-1/8" gap for 12" R.I.). Right now the gap between top of tank and wall is more like 4-1/2"! :( Even though it doesn't seem to be leaking, I'm thinking that my Drake may be set a bit forward on the flange.

I think I'll do what Wallijonn suggested in another thread: flip the bowl upside down and check the minimum bolt spacing, and then secure the bolts more towards the back of the closet flange at that width using some extra nuts. The reason I didn't do that initially is because I used a SaniSeal ring and it sort of holds the bolts at a set width. Think the SaniSeal will still work with this method, or do you think I need to go back to tried and true wax?

As for the tank to bowl fit, how much of a gap should there be between the two at the at the front? Mine has a pretty tiny gap there (around 1/8"?), but I'm pretty sure I installed it as per instructions. I tightened the nuts down slightly, checked it with a level, and then continued evenly tightening until the 3 points made contact with the bowl. I'm paranoid about cracking the porcelain, so I just carefully tightened it until there was little to no movement when the tank is pushed.

One thing I'll say is that the flush performance seems pretty impressive! The water doesn't just slowly fill up the bowl during a flush like my 1.6 GPF Kohler... it's a much quicker, more forceful flush on the Drake.

Thanks for the help!
 

WJcandee

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Sounds like you did a very nice install. I wouldn't sweat it. If you centered the closet bolts on the flange, and threaded them through the Sani-Seal (which also would center them on the flange), it's fair to assume that they're in the right place. This assumes the that Sani-Seal's donut hole is directly over the hole in the flange, which presumably you would have noticed if it wasn't.

Relax and enjoy your toilet!!

PS We have two of those toilets and love them!!
 

Gary Swart

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The thing you didn't account for is that a toilet's rough-in rating is not an exact figure. A toilet will never require more space than it is rated for, always less. There will always be a some space between the tank and the wall. It will vary from model to model even with the same manufacturer. You can gain a fraction of an inch by moving the flange bolts, but it will not really help your concern. Bit late for advice now, but what you might have considered is one of the Toto models that use the Unifit adapter. Costs more than the Drake, but does allow for fitting on 10", 12", or 14" rough-ins simple by using one of the 3 adapters. This a a feature that is only available from Toto and is only for specific models, and the Drake is not one of them.
 

KP Texan

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Oh, I'm well aware of the Toto Unifit adapter. The only model I would have considered for that would have been the Vespin (which is still twice what I paid for the Drake if you include Unifit) and my supply stub-out is only 4-1/2" off center line. I'm also working with a 3" drain pipe so I didn't figure another bend in the system would help me. Due to this, I chose not to go with the Unifit.

I hear what you're saying about variance in rough in rating, but most people mentioned the Drake's distance from wall as being no more than what is shown on the Toto spec sheet at 1-1/8". I even used the AutoCAD model of the toilet and with my rough in, my gap is still 1+ inches more than specified (gap with 12" R.I. on Autocad model is actually 3/4"). If it were 1/4" or even 1/2" more I could see that being within tolerance, but 1+"? I'm just wondering if I could have botched where I sat the toilet over the flange, or if my tank may not be sitting right. I'm pretty sure the tank is OK though because its making contact on the correct areas. Bear in mind that if this toilet were sitting on a true 12" rough-in the exact same way as this one, the gap between tank and wall would be at 1-3/4" - 2".

Regardless of what I get figured out, I'm still going to have a gap to contend with so I'll put some shelving there.... I simply didn't want more of a gap to deal with than I had to.
 
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Reach4

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Can you easily flex the top of the tank toward the wall? If you press rearward, you should not be able to flex such that copy paper goes easily between the tank and bowl contact points.

Is your bowl level, or or is it tilted forward significantly? If tilted forward, shims offer an easy fix.

I guess your toilet flange is set in concrete. An easy workaround is to put in "space saver" shelves to hide the gap some-- not as good as custom, but a lot simpler.
 

KP Texan

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Thanks for the reply Reach! I'll have a look at the items you mentioned. I did use a level and one shim on the side of the bowl to get rid of a slight wobble, but I don't recall if I checked it with a level in the longitudinal direction.
 

WJcandee

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I really think that screwing with it when it's already fine is going to cause you nothing but tears.

You put the saniseal on the flange. It was centered over the flange. The bolts go through the holes on the saniseal. So that's FINE.

You put the toilet on the flange and put the bolts through the holes. So that's FINE.

You put the tank on correctly. Don't screw with it. All you're going to do is break the porcelain.

I don't know why everyone is giving you all this advice. It sounds like you did fine, so I would just leave it alone already.

If you're still worried, send us a photo.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, the rough-in measurement is from the wall, not the baseboard, if that makes any difference. Depending exactly on which Drake you have (there are LOTS of different models), the tank on some of the earlier ones had a much bigger gap to the wall than the newest ones. Do you have a model number on the tank you have? Or, maybe with a picture, someone in the know can identify which one you have.
 

KP Texan

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wjcandee, in my experience you're most likely correct. If I screw with it then there's a good chance I'll be worse off, haha. I have the Toto Drake model CST744S#01 (bowl C744E-01 and tank ST743S-01). A few pics (don't judge, still have some work to do, haha):
 
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JMac

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I'm not 100% sure about the Drake, but I have the Drake II on a 11" rough-in and the back top of the tank is almost on the wall (maybe 1/8"?). If that is the case with yours, a 14 1/2" rough-in would yield a 3 1/2" +/- gap, which is actually a bit bigger than you ended up with.
 

Reach4

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Nice floor. It would be nice if you could move he toilet flange back and to the right. That can be done, even on a slab, but it is harder on a slab than with a crawl space.

That would locate your supply line with respect to the toilet better.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, code requires 15" on either side of a toilet to any obstruction...it looks like you are REALLY close, if not too close on the right-hand side of the toilet.
 

WJcandee

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That looks nice. I see what you mean about the flange being 14.5 from the wall (and you correctly measured from the wall, not the baseboard, it appears). And you got the parts numbers (CST744E-01) from the box, right? Only thing I can think of...is that wall perfectly-vertical? You're right, the math doesn't exactly add up, but the install looks very nice, as does your work on the bathroom.
 

KP Texan

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Thanks for the replies. Yep, that flange location isn't quite to code since it's 13" or so from the adjacent right hand wall. Moving the flange isn't really feasible at this point since I would have to tear up the new floor. I could afford it monetarily, but I don't think I could afford the backlash from the wife, haha. I'll check how plumb the wall is; really wouldn't surprise me if it's off in this old house. Another thing I'm going to do is take some measurements from the front of the bowl and see how that jives with the spec. Worst case, I just leave it as is since its not really a show stopper... I'm just a bit picky when it comes to stuff like that. As for the part numbers, here are the boxes so they appear to be correct:
 
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Reach4

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I think I would mount the TP roll under rather than over.
 

WJcandee

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Terry, I looked at the photo he has above with his measuring tape and he seems to be measuring correctly. Since it's a nudge less than 14.5" to the center of the bolts from his measuring point, and the tank seems to be on correctly from the photos, and it does indeed seem to be 4.5" from the wall to the back of the tank, I'm thinking that the wall may be inclined a bit away from the room; i.e. further away at 3 feet above the ground than it is a few inches above the floor.

Our member is concerned that maybe he didn't center the thing over the flange, but it doesn't matter if he did or didn't (I am assuming that he did, given that he is using a Saniseal which has just two holes in it for the bolts). If the BOLTS are 14.5 from the wall, then the TANK should be about 3.5", regardless of where the flange is actually located. I can't think of any reason other than a non-vertical wall that would account for these discrepancies, given that the tank appears to be mounted correctly.

Judging from his photos of the boxes, that's a C744E bowl, not a ten-incher, so that isn't it.
 
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