Toto Aquia dual flush toilet product review, comments and posts.

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BMalcom

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Aquia Mineral Buildup Issues

I have had an original Aquia for just over 2 years and I'm generally very happy. It does seem to "mark" more easily than other toilets I've owned. The one problem I wonder if others have had is a mineral buildup. I can generally remove the buildup with some CLR and elbow grease, but it's frustrating that I've had to deal with it. It's likely caused by a habit of not flushing urine to further conserve water (we picked up that habit during a drought last summer). I've asked the family to use the 1/2 flush since the first cleaning, but the buildup seemed to return within a few months.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
 

Jadnashua

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Sanaglos helps with this as it is smoother and stuff doesn't adhere as easily.

Not flushing is asking for trouble inbetween uses.
 

Gasket Masher

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Aquia and hard water

Hello all,

Anyone have experience or an opinion about longevity of the Aquia if used with hard water? Terry?

As an alternative toilet the eco-drake?

Thanks, Guy
 

Peanut9199

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Aquia and Drake use the same fill valve parts so they would be affected the same.
I would think all makes would be affected as most all use rubber diagrams.
 

innj

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Aquia flushing button

2 questions:
1) How hard is it to push down on the button to flush? I have seen some of the flushes with buttons on the tank in hotels and they are hard to flush.
2) How easy is it to reach for kids? I don't have much space around the toilet and wondering if anyone has experience with this?

I like the look of the toilet and that most people seem to think it flushes really well.
 

Peanut9199

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We have had it in our Men's Showroom washroom for years and we have had all sort of people including children and i have had no one mention trouble pushing the button.
I find it easy to push and you don't need to stand at the side to reach.
The only thing is you need to reach around or over the toilet seat lid.
 

rhyudog

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Great toilet

I just purchased and installed the Aquia II toilet after reading through all the posts here (Thanks Terry for having such a great website). The install took quite awhile since the I had to also install the toto washet I had for over three years (the main valve that comes with the washlet was very tight where it connects to the flush valve). The new Aquia II complements it really well. I was very hesitant when my wife wanted to purchase the toto washet several years back, but now I don't feel as sanitary when i use just toilet paper.

The Aquia II is fully integrated so there's no more plastic trapway that is open to the back. There's only four holes you have to drill instead of the 6 that is with the original model. I didn't have the leaky connection from the tank bolts or filler tube so maybe they fixed it in this model. All in all, a great toilet!!

toto.jpg
 

Msy3

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Aquia II Button Adjustment

I have three Aquia II toilets installed in my house. The hardest part was drilling through the tile. Other than that, they were quite simple to install once you figured out the somewhat cryptic instructions. This was my second Toto install as I had installed a Carlyle toilet a few years ago. Overall, I am quite satisfied with the toilets, except for one thing.

The flushing buttons on top do not seem to sit the same on all of the toilets. Of the three, only one has no play in the buttons. On the other two, the buttons are a little more recessed than the third. I found a video of a Carona toilet in AU that has an adjustment for the button height so you can remove the play in the buttons.

Do the Aquia II toilets have an adjustment like this?
 

Peanut9199

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I have been getting call backs on the Aquia II with the toilet not flushing properly and it seems the pins under the button are too short.
If your buttons are recessed you may run into the same problem.
 

Msy3

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I have been getting call backs on the Aquia II with the toilet not flushing properly and it seems the pins under the button are too short.
If your buttons are recessed you may run into the same problem.

I don't know if the pins are shorter on the two toilets or not... that may be the case. In any event, do you know of a way to adjust anything to compensate for the difference in pin length? That may be what is causing the buttons to look recessed on top of the toilet
 

Msy3

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I don't know if the pins are shorter on the two toilets or not... that may be the case. In any event, do you know of a way to adjust anything to compensate for the difference in pin length? That may be what is causing the buttons to look recessed on top of the toilet

Update... I swapped the tops of one of the bad ones with the good one and the pins appear to be the same size. It looks like either the blue and white buttons are not as high in the cylinder or the cylinder doesn't sit as high on the other two toilets. I am hoping there is a set screw or something to adjust the blue and white button height.. I can't seem to find anything.
 

Jadnashua

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I wonder if it's just a function of how tight they got the flush tower attachment nut...there's a gasket underneath, and a little bit of give in the rubber bushing (I think, anyways). Depending on the thread pitch, it might not take much...
 

DaveZmeyr

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Bought one of these for a small bathroom

It seemed to be sized just right and was light enough to have shipped UPS. I do agree that the lack of water in the bowl is a little disconcerting and sometimes (rarely in my experience) requires you to wash the bowl, it seems to handle most of everything that's thrown at it and I've only had it jam up once in two months.

My general contractor seemed to find this a little bit more difficult than other toilets to install, but not really a lot (and it could have been more that it was all new plumbing in a new bathroom). It does have a weird tinkle noise post flush which others have commented on, but nothing really annoying.

Overall, I'm happy with this thought he button is definitely a little difficult to push if you're actually on the toilet and you might have problems if you have long finger nails.

I'd buy one again.
 

Donn2390

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I am interested in buying the Aquia II or Aquia III next week. I do not need Universal height of Aquia III.
Before buying, I would like to know how Aquia II or Aquia III flushing performance and skid mark creating compares to Drake or Ultramax.

I also would like to know how the Aquia II or Aquia III is installed. Looking at http://docs.hdpi.com/PE-Links/Toto/Toto_AquiaComparrisonChart.pdf , it seems that Aquia II or III do not have the plastic trap like the Aquia. But Aquia II and III do have an "outlet flange". Does the outlet flange need to be screwed in to the floor?

I am presuming that Aquia II and III are installed differently from Aquia. Could not find Aquia III or III install instructions on Toto's site.

Thanks, Terry, for this great forum.
I want to bring this back to the top, because I have yet to see it answered...! Are there installation instructions available for the ll and lll...?
I had the same questions about mounting the ones with the integrated trap.

Installation instructions for Aquia
 
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Basement_Lurker

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The Aquia II/III installation is simpler than an Aquia I install. The Aquia I installs using a special version of Toto's unifit flange which acts as part of the trapway. But the Aquia II/III units install much like a conventional toilet; they have their own trapway, and they drop into the "outlet flange" which gets bolted on top of the wax ring/floor flange via the toilet bolts. Then the toilet gets siliconed to the floor if movement is a problem.

Installation instructions for Aquia
 
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Arnsberg

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toto acquia -dual flush

We purchased the above Toto about 2 years ago . It looks great and works very very well. I do not find it noisy.
We do have a problem and I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem?.

I find that unless I clean the toliet every 2or 3 days, and sometimes each day , there is a distinct urine odor. I am an Interior Designer/ Decorator and I noticed the definite same smell in a client's home recently (she had 2 dual-flush toto's).Upstairs we have a Maxwell
2nd generation toliet we bought 7 years ago and there is no odor problem with it , tho it does not work near as well as the Toto.

I would appreciate comments if anyone else is experiencing this.?I might add I did contact the Toto rep . and they suggested it could be a vent problem , however we have never had this problem before and as I mentioned the toliet upstairs is fine.
 

Jadnashua

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The most common problem is that the toilet was not caulked around the base and an occasional miss by the male (young or old) allowed some to migrate underneath. Pull the toilet, clean well, then reinstall with some caulk to keep that from happening. Sometimes a dog or cat can mark the spot as well.

There are some enzymeatic cleaners that can help, but without the bottom being caulked, it may not penetrate far enough or prevent it from happening again.

There's nothing in the toilet that would allow this to happen.

Note, though, that as a two-piece toilet (on the Drake, but true for any two-piece), it's possible to get some accumulation between the bowl and the tank. That would require taking it apart and doing a thorough cleaning and better aim control!
 

Patchesj

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The Aquia II/III installation is simpler than an Aquia I install. The Aquia I installs using a special version of Toto's unifit flange which acts as part of the trapway. But the Aquia II/III units install much like a conventional toilet; they have their own trapway, and they drop into the "outlet flange" which gets bolted on top of the wax ring/floor flange via the toilet bolts. Then the toilet gets siliconed to the floor if movement is a problem.

We've run into a "rocking" issue with the 3 Aquia I's installed in our home. The plumber has installed 2 plastic shims under the front sides of the toilet to help with this, but it's not a pretty solution and creates a gap between the skirt and tile floor. Will silicone actually hold the toilet to the tile?
 

Jadnashua

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I use coins to shim, and the preferred place is to force the front down, and shim at the back, but either will work. The real goal is to not allow the toilet to rock. The shims should end up entirely under the lip of the base, so that they aren't visible. The bolts really hold the toilet in place, but caulk will both add to that AND seal stuff from dripping down the sides and going under the toilet where it can't be cleaned easily. Because the bolt holes have some slop, the friction between the bottom of the bowl and a smooth tiled floor make it easier to move the toilet around a little, regardless of how tight you make it. Since tile has no give, nor does the toilet, you can't get them super tight, or you'll crack the bowl, especially if you are using shims - the toilet won't bend! So, shims are needed if either the floor isn't perfectly flat, or the toilet bottom isn't. SOmetimes it is one or the other and both is not uncommon with some brands.

shim_it.jpg
 
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Patchesj

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Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the bowl? I'm trying to figure out where the "most flat" area would be to shim.

Thanks.
 
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