Toto Aquia dual flush toilet product review, comments and posts.

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by stimpsonjcatt, Aug 31, 2005.

  1. abarclay

    abarclay New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Brentwood, California
    Just thought I would throw my two cents in here. I installed this toilet and had a leak on the left tank bolt. I tried removing the tank and re-installing several times. I tried sanding the inside of the toilet around the hole and re-installing. I went so far as to alternate tightening the tank bolts a quarter turn each until they were tight. I tried over-tightening to the point where I was worried the tank would crack (thank goodness it didn't). Each time, it leaked. Finally, I used a coat of RTV silicone on the rubber washer that seals inside the tank. This fixed the leak. I'm not sure what else I could have done, but now the toilet is working great.
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2011
  2. brook0

    brook0 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    New York
    I noticed the Aquia one piece only has a 1-3/4 inch trap compared to the 2-1/8 trap on the Aquia CST416M. Do you think that this could affect the performance in a negative way. Does anyone have any real world experience with the one piece Aquia?
  3. Reader Review

    Reader Review Comments by readers

    Last edited by a moderator: May 24, 2014
  4. Seattle2k

    Seattle2k New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Seattle
    I have one too. Recently, it seems it's not flushing as much water. I know I can adjust that though. Otherwise, the toilet works and looks great.
  5. lecvar

    lecvar New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    CA
    We purchased an Aquia MS654114MF and are in the last day of a bathroom remodel only to discover that we have 11", not 12" for the rough in. Does anyone have any experience with using this model with an offset flange?

    Thanks for an amazing site. I've learned more in the 17 pages than 47 years!
  6. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    You can set these at 11.5"
    You may be able to fudge the adapter the rest of the 1/2" by setting it offcenter to the flange.
    The outlet is 2", and you are dropping it into a 3" pipe. There is some room to play with there.

    We sometimes use a flange repair ring to hold the closet bolts at the "new" center.
    Do not use an offset flange.
  7. lecvar

    lecvar New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    CA
    Thank you Terry.

  8. kohinahi

    kohinahi New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Virginia
    Hi!
    I need some help with a powder room project and would greatly appreciate if someone with an installed Aquia II 12" rough-in toilet can provide me with some measurements. The issue is that my chrome threaded pipe nipple is 3" from the center line, protrudes 4" (including the valve) from the wall and is 5" off the floor. I was planning to install the Aquia II (CST412MF or CST416M) toilet and need to know if the back of the toilet can accommodate my current nipple placement. It would be very helpful if you can let me know the rear clearances.

    If the toiler rear cannot accommodate the nipple, can someone let me know how easy/difficult it is to swap out the nipple with a new shorter one? I am only experienced with copper pipes.

    Thank you!!

    [​IMG]

    Aquia II on a 12" rough
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2013
  9. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,894
    Location:
    New York, NY
  10. kohinahi

    kohinahi New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Virginia
    Terry/wjcandee, Thank you.

    Last edited: Oct 25, 2013
  11. bronsonb

    bronsonb New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    Smyrna, GA
    Hi there. Not a plumber, but I happen to have the same toilet installed. I measured behind mine, and in that "cut out" area in the back (just above that "foot" at the base) it's about 6.75" from the wall to the back of the toilet. Sounds like the nipple would fit, but I don't know if you'd have room after mounting a shut off valve on it. I think you'd clear the back of the toilet that is closest to the wall, and the pipe is high enough to put it inside that "cut out" area (if all of this is making sense).

    I'd just be concerned about having enough space for the shut off valve. Hope this helps at least a little bit.
  12. kohinahi

    kohinahi New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thank you! That does help.
  13. kohinahi

    kohinahi New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Virginia
    One additional question. Would anyone know if are these two TOTO toilets -- CST416M (Aquia II) and CST412MF (Aquia) are identical except for the height? I looked at the CAD drawings and specs (the supply line area looks different) and could not determine if they both had the new Aquia II type cutout? I saw an Aquia toilet where the skirt extends towards the wall -- covering the cutout area in the Aquia II. TOTO representatives claim that the only difference in the two above models is their height - 16 3/8 for the Aquia II and 17 1/8 for the Aquia.

    Thank you in advance!
  14. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]

    Original CST414M installed with the old style SS114 Seat. This installation must be about ten years old now.
    While I was installing a new tub downstairs, the homeowner commented how much she loved this Aquia. Thinking she may want to take it with her if she moves.
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2013
  15. plumbing-ra

    plumbing-ra New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Colorado
    I am about to install two beautiful Aquia CST412's to replace my P.O.S. Am Std low flush (no flush?) toilets. All pics here generally show that the water outlet comes out of the wall. In my case the outlet is from the floor. First (perhaps stupid question) but why does it seem like the wall-mounted outlet is preferred? Second question: the existing floor outlet is about 3-1/2" from the base trim to the front edge of the escutcheon. Any reason to think there'd be any interference with the toilet's base (it seems to have about 6" clearance)?

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]

    Aquia CST416M
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 28, 2014
  16. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,894
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Doesn't matter whether the water supply comes from the wall or floor. What's important is whether there's clearance from the toilet. There are lots of reasons that the supply is usually on the wall. If there's an exterior wall there in an environment that has freezing weather during the year, floor mount can provide some protection against pipe freeze.

    The 412MF's base is 10" wide. 1/2 of that means that it spreads 5" to either side of the toilet centerline. The back of the toilet base is somewhere about 4.5"-ish (maybe a smidge more) from the FINISHED wall (NOT the baseboard). So...if your pipe is sufficiently to the left of the toilet OR emerges sufficiently-close to the wall, it will work. You can always pull or cut the escutcheon if that's the deciding factor as opposed to the pipe. Good luck and come back if you have other questions! You will love that toilet.
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  17. plumbing-ra

    plumbing-ra New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Colorado
    The supply lines from the floor might be a Denver thing given our very cold nights: one toilet backs an interior wall which is only 1' in from an exterior wall, while the other backs a wall to an unheated garage.

    Thanks for the clearance numbers - I looked at the Toto website's template and spec sheet and I couldn't see anything for the base's clearance from the wall (the 10" width was shown clearly). Based on the above numbers the escutcheons will be close to the left rear corner of the base. Fortunately the Aquia that's going into a bathroom to be left as-is will probably just clear the escutcheon, while the other one will be tighter but is going into a bath which we are completely remodeling so moving the supply won't be a huge deal if needed (it's above an unfinished portion of our basement) or cutting the escutcheon will probably do it too.
  18. plumbing-ra

    plumbing-ra New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Colorado
    So what are these "lots of reasons"?
  19. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,139
    Location:
    New England
    - It's a lot easier to change the flooring (add or change out tile) if the water comes from the wall
    - It's easier to clean the floor without a pipe sticking up
    - The supply line is more hidden coming out of the wall, but you still need to be able to access it to shut it off for maintenance
    - if you don't have a basement, the fewer lines running through a slab, the better (IMHO, anyway)
    -If you did have a spill, water wouldn't be able to run down the hole of a supply coming out of the wall, or at least, not as easily!

    I'm sure there are more reasons, but that's what comes to mind right now.
  20. plumbing-ra

    plumbing-ra New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Colorado
    Indeed - the spill issue did come to mind, but the other ones were more subtle for me...thanks!
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