tool to pressure test copper water pipe

[Lifespeed]

I'm installing some new 3/4" schedule K copper water pipe for a sprinkler system. They are somewhat unusual accurain sprinklers. The pipe is pressurized full time like a normal water supply pipe, with the valve located in the sprinkler itself.

Before I bury the pipe or run water through it, I want to pressure test it to find any leaks and save myself potential headaches should I have not done a solder joint correctly. I have a 3/4" male-thread union at the system input following the supply shutoff ball valve, and three male pipe thread outlets I can cap.

Is there a tool available for this job? Or do I have to assemble and solder the female union, schrader valve for compresseed air, gauge, etc out of the various individual pieces? I'm not even sure how to adapt a schrader valve to this system.

Thanks,

Lifespeed

 

[Wet_Boots]

Why not use flare fittings, if you're going to the expense of using K copper? Utilities don't bury soldered copper. The connections are always mechanical.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Lifespeed]

Why not use flare fittings, if you're going to the expense of using K copper? Utilities don't bury soldered copper. The connections are always mechanical.

It is a little late for that . . .

I suppose there is a good reason for that? Soldered connections are unreliable why?

Anyway, it is not the feed to the house, but a less-critical sprinkler application. Still, I don't want to have to mess with it for 20 years or greater.

Lifespeed

 

[Terry]

If you have a threaded connection somewhere, you can get a test connection on it.

Solder connections are fine in the yard.
They don't suggest them under concrete, and that's why the water department doesn't solder their connections.

Most irrigation systems use larger pipe than 3/4 for the main feed, but if you are only running a few heads at a time, it could work.

 

[Lifespeed]

If you have a threaded connection somewhere, you can get a test connection on it.

Solder connections are fine in the yard.
They don't suggest them under concrete, and that's why the water department doesn't solder their connections.

Most irrigation systems use larger pipe than 3/4 for the main feed, but if you are only running a few heads at a time, it could work.

Only one head runs at a time, this type of system definitely requires less volume than a typical irrigation setup. Of course, it runs for a longer period of time.

Where would I buy/rent/build a test connection? Who makes them? I contacted a local plumber intending to pay him to come out and do the test using his tool. I suspect he did not have one, but said that he just turns the water on and checks for leaks using water pressure. I suppose I could blow the pipes out with compressed air if I find a leak, I do have easy access. Are there significant downsides to simply testing using water pressure before burying?

 

[Peanut9199]

You can try Wheeler Rex
http://www.wheelerrex.com/tooldiagrams.htm
Go to their "Quick Menu" under Hydrostatic Test Pumps.
Not sure who rents them out but it's a start.

 

[Markts30]

Make up the union and keep the ball valve closed...
Cap 2 of the 3 3/4" MIPs and get a 3/4" valve and body from your local plumbing shop...
It is a valve, testing body and shrader (tire) valve in one - about $15-$25 (i think)... It screws directly on the 3/4" MIP.
Pump it up to 100 lbs and let it sit for an hour or two then check the pressure...
Come back in an hour after that and see if it is still steady (within 3 lbs...).
If it is, call it good...
if not, use soapy water to find the leak...

 

[Lifespeed]

Make up the union and keep the ball valve closed...
Cap 2 of the 3 3/4" MIPs and get a 3/4" valve and body from your local plumbing shop...
It is a valve, testing body and shrader (tire) valve in one - about $15-$25 (i think)... It screws directly on the 3/4" MIP.
Pump it up to 100 lbs and let it sit for an hour or two then check the pressure...
Come back in an hour after that and see if it is still steady (within 3 lbs...).
If it is, call it good...
if not, use soapy water to find the leak...

Thanks! That's what I needed, the correct term to ask for the part at the plumbing shop.