Toilet waste pump problem

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Since my toilet is lower than my waste exit, I have a pump that ejects the waste up and out of the house. The pump is not working. I removed the pump out of the housing (pain in the @ss). When I turn the power on, the pump makes a humming noise but does not come on. When I manually rotate it, it kicks in and works. If the rotation comes to a complete stop, it needs to be kick started again for it to come on. If it's still in slowing down when I activate the float switch on, it keeps going. Also, the pump runs clockwise or counter depending which way I kick start it. I tried spraying degreaser, and then I tried oil, but it's still the same. Since we got a large snow storm last night, I was attempting to repair it, instead of going out. The pump is 3 years old, does it sound like I need to replace it? I think it's time to get the shovel out, and head out to home depot. Thanks in advance for any help.

At worst, I saved some some money on labour by replacing it myself. :eek:
 

Cass

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I wouldn't head out to a big box store unless you want to be doing this again in the near future.

I would wait till Monday and get a Zoeller Pump at a plumbing supply house.

In the mean time you can pull the old one so they can match the HP. and electrical requirements which are most likely 120V.
 

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Thanks!

I already pulled it. It's 1/2 HP and 120v. Will I need to bring the pump with me? It connects to a 2" exit pipe. Thanks
 

Cass

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I would bring it so they can get you every thing you need.

What brand of pump is it?
 

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I will go and check the pump brand after lunch.

In the meantime, I have another question. The water level in the reservoir has been raising and the vent pipe is under water. Will I need to remove some water to clear the vent pipe before installing the new pump? Thanks
 

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Curiosity about your last statement. Is the level rising because you are using items in the bathroom?

If not then you have a leak somewhere in the bathroom fixtures, the pit is taking ground water from the foundation, or the check valve is not working.
 

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The pump came inside a complete unit which I bought at home depot about 3 years ago. I had a plumber dig a hole and put the unit under the toilet. Behind closet doors, I have access to the unit. Now I removed the pump from inside the unit, but there's alot of water inside the plastic unit. The pump hadn't been working, and Yes we have been using water when we really need to raising the water level inside the unit. I thought I could just connect the exit waste pipe and when I turned on the pump, it would flush it up and out until the level lowered. Do I need to manually lower the water level before putting the new pump inside so the pump doesn't get wet? Thanks
 

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If you can get the pump in without causing the water to overflow on to the floor it is fine. It will work as you said.
 

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I can shut the lid on the unit and turn on the pump.

I noticed that there is water falling back into the same pipe that the pump uses for exit. The sink drain from upstairs has back flow into the pump exit pipe. Is it ok to have the exit pipe always full of water? Is 1/2 HP enough to push out my waste about 4ft up with the water sitting there? Thanks
 

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There should be a check valve in the riser for the sewage pump to prevent backflow. If there is not one, add it. If there is one installed and water flows back into the sump, fix it or replace it.
 

Redwood

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Check the voltage to the circuit that it is plugged in on. I have seen where ta loose connection and the resulting low voltage made the pump have a weak start. Long term it will damage the motor.
 

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I bought a little giant 9S series 4/10 HP automatic submersible wastewater sewage pump for $315.00. Is it a reliable brand/model? and was it a good price?
 

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I had my wife post earlier hoping for feedback about this pump we bought cause I couldn't find a Zoeller pump as Cass suggested. Oh well, I hope it's a decent brand cause now I'm ready to install it. By the way, the bad pump was BUR-CAM.

I'm gonna try to install the pump now. It has a different style float than my original pump. This float switch comes seperate and has to be tied to the pump. I will try to tie the float at 3.5" up from the ground as suggested. Hope all goes well. Thanks for all your help and I will try to post results tomorrow. Thanks guys! :D
 

Leejosepho

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This float switch comes seperate and has to be tied to the pump. I will try to tie the float at 3.5" up from the ground as suggested ...

That probably means the float should be 3.5" up from the bottom when it is in its lowest position, then how far up you go from there before actually fastening the cord to the discharge pipe or wherever will determine your low-to-high range ... and the broader the range, the less the pump will have to start and cycle, and that is good.
 

Redwood

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As far as brands of pumps go I like Zoeller and Liberty Pumps. I would shy away from the Big Box junk as this is not the most pleasant task in the world to perform so why do it more often.

Does this system do the whole house? In reading the post I'm not sure if its the whole house or just the basement bath that is served by it. If it is a whole house unit you should have a duplex unit with alarm. Duplex meaning 2 pumps!

I would set up the floats like in the sketch below... Starting is the enemy of every electric motor. The motor uses current about 150% of its run current to start. Every start produces heat and shortens life. The object is to have the pit fill to the inlet pipe but not back up into it then run until the pit is pumped down as far as possible without the pump drawing air.

ejectorpitfloatswitchsettings.jpg
 
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What kind of price range is Arcsoft in? Is it one of those "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" type of things?

bob...
 

Leejosepho

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You can do all of that in MS Paint, and just about everybody already has it.
Note: This sample does not look all that great because I drew it small and later resized it.
 

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