Toilet leaking under lock in place tile

[saw]

We noticed a small leak in our basement that lead to the toilet that sat above us. My husband assumed that the toilet needed a new wax seal, so he put one on. When he removed the toilet to do so, there was a lot of water that we did not notice. We have a "floating" tile floor. The leak was under it. Anyway, the wood floor is still wet. What can we do to prevent the wood from rotting? Do we have to pull the tiles? Will the wood dry on it's own? Should we put a fan in the basement? Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Is the toilet on the first floor or in the basement?

Edit: It seems possible that the water is not caused by a toilet leak. Do you have a sump and a sump pump? If not, I think you want to get one.

I don't know if your flooring will survive this. Dehumidifiers and ventilation+heat are the things that can dry things out if that is possible. Depending on humidity, outside air and fans may work as well as dehumidifiers.

Some basement floating flooring has a base that can let water pass under and make its way to your sump system. Your replacement floor put in after adding/repairing your drainage system should probably have that feature.

I don't know what the situation with insurance is. It is probable that it is not covered, but I think it would not hurt to contact your insurance agent.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

Depending on the extent of the "flood", you may have to remove the tiles. It can't get dry under the tiles by itself or with a fan. What you don't want is weak joists, with rot and mold.

 

[Jadnashua]

If the wood has not rotted, and the bottom is open to the air which is sounds like it is, if you stop the leak, eventually, it will dry out. A dehumidifier in the basement and a fan blowing will help. If you can see the edge of the ply from where the toilet flange goes through the floor, you can poke at it. If it is soft and crumbles, you need to tear things up. If it is still solid, it will dry out. Something like an ice pick or scratch awl will help to determine if the wood is bad.

A dehumidifier in the bathroom and using the ventilation fan after a shower will help, too. While the grout joints aren't huge in area compared to the tile, they will wick moisture out that way, too. A porcelain tile (the more common one for floors these days), isn't porcelain if it has more than 0.5% moisture absorbtion - IOW, it's pretty impervious, but even it will let moisture out over time. Take something like a ball bat or a big screwdriver handle and tap on the tile. If they sound like they are hollow, you need a tearout as they've debonded. But, assuming you used thinset, it doesn't degrade in moisture. Only if the wood expanded enough to break the bond, or the floor is rotting, does it have to come out. Even if you've sealed the grout, moisture vapor will still escape (assuming it's not acrylic or epoxy).

 

[saw]

We noticed the water in the basement. The toilet is in the upstairs. The tile we have installed like purgo flooring, it is real tile, but it isn't grouted, the tiles snapped into each other. The toilet sets ontop of the tile. Water never appeared about the tile. We happened to notice a small drip while in the basement. If we can avoid taking up the tiles, that is my hope, but I don't want to risk a floor rotting from under the tiles. I was thinking aiming a fan from the basement to see if we can get the water to dry that way. Will that work? Do we have to take the toilet up again to verify it isn't still leaking? We are assuming that it is the wax seal. My husband put the seal on backward--he affixed it to the trap on the floor, but when I read the directions they stated that he should have affixed the seal to the toilet first. UGH, does it even matter? We are flying blind!

thanks

 

[Reach4]

I would get a humidity measuring device (hygrometer). When the outside humidity is low, and the temperature is high enough, bringing in outside air could help. Circulating air could help. I don't know if you can reasonably save your flooring.

Let me say that one of the things would be to use a wet-dry vacuum cleaner to remove as much water as I could . Suck water until no water to suck. Then come back later and suck some more if there is water to be sucked.

Do we have to take the toilet up again to verify it isn't still leaking?

I am not a plumber. If you saw dripping before, and do not see it now, that would tend to say that you have fixed the leak.

My husband put the seal on backward--he affixed it to the trap on the floor, but when I read the directions they stated that he should have affixed the seal to the toilet first. UGH, does it even matter?

Putting the wax ring on the closet flange is the better method despite the "instructions". That is how the plumbers do it.

Did you get some clogging in the toilet to where you used a plunger? The problem may have been that the sewer has a clog. The plunging could have created a pressure big enough to blow out the wax seal. In many cases, a flaw in the wax will not cause a leak because the water drops into the closet flange. If the pipe is partially blocked, then the pressure rises a bit at that point, so an opening will pass water.

SaniSeal may easier to use if your husband goes back in for some reason, such as putting in a modern toilet with a smooth clog-resistant trapway. Saniseal can stand up to the imperfect install where the installer lifts and moves the toilet a bit during the process. Wax should only be compressed and the toilet should not be lifted or moved later without changing the wax. A plumber is practiced in doing that right. SaniSeal will not permanently blow out in response to plunging. If you need to plunge, that may point to a sewer problem or inferior toilet design.

I would put a tray under where the dripping was hitting the basement floor for a while to see if any dripping occurs.