Toilet Flange

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by ll1000a, Mar 25, 2007.

  1. ll1000a

    ll1000a New Member

    Messages:
    15
    I'm putting new flooring in a toliet room and must raise the flooring a bit to match the existing flooring where the shower is. So must add 3/4 inch plywood and then wonderboard and then the tile or tavertine. Could be close to a 2 inch raise.
    My question is: with this increase in floor height above the current condition with the vinal floor that is coming up; how will the flange work- if it is recessed? is there an adapter I can buy to raise the height of the current toilet floor drain flange? I'm a bit worried about loosening the flange in it's current location (no access from below) to slip more Plywood underneath.
    Please Advise
    Thank You!!

    Great web site, thanks again for all your help
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,319
    Location:
    New England
    2" is a bit much for flange extenders! Is the floor wood construction or on a slab? It would be best to tear it out and reinstall it properly on top of the finished floor. How to do that would depend on the construction. Is it pvc or cast iron? 3" or 4"?
  3. ll1000a

    ll1000a New Member

    Messages:
    15
    ABS
    4 INCH
    I unscrewed from the floor and got 1/4 inch lift, however due to the elbow it will not lift any more. I would hate to cut up this floor, any other sugestions?
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,319
    Location:
    New England
    Could you tear out a little of the ceiling under that area?

    Another possibility, you'd want to look closely at it to see how much engagement you could get, would be to use one of the waxless toilet seals. I've used the Fluidmaster one - it has basically a funnel with some heavy-duty O-rings that make the seal. If it engaged the existing flange well, it might work. I'd be worried if there was too much room and during plunging, you forced the O-ring out of position - normally I think anyways, it would be trapped. Not sure it would be with that much gap...Look at one of the things and then decide.

    The better choice is to move it where it should be, though.
  5. ll1000a

    ll1000a New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Unfortunatly the way the house is built it's stucko below (the outside of the house.) overhangs.
    What about 3 or 4 flange extenders? or can you not stack them up like that?
    Thanks for the input!!

    I would attach a picture, but something is blocking the pop up that attaches the photo.
  6. TedL

    TedL New Member

    Messages:
    604
    Location:
    NY Capital District
    Why the reluctance to cut the exsiting subfloor if you're going over it with another layer of 3/4 plywood? Cutting an opening around the flange would let you correct the height.

    The other possibility depends on how high the current riser to the flange is. You may be able to remove the flange and use a long enough "twist-n-place" or "two finger" flange that just slips in place.
  7. ll1000a

    ll1000a New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Both Good points.
    Guess I was just a little reluctant to cut up the floor I just completed due to a small measuring error.
    Thanks guys !! I'll do the correct think to save me future issues.
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