tilted closet flange problem..

Users who are viewing this thread

flazoom

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
South Florida
Hello,
While replacing the third (and final) toilet in my house (2 Toto Drakes and 1 Soiree) I found that the closet flange was not screwed to the floor and was tilted about 1/2 in. The back of the flange touches the floor and the front is raised about 1/2 inch. The toilet I removed had been sitting on about 1/4 inch of grout so it fit. When attempted to install one of the Drakes it seems to hit the flange and also it rocks. when I puled the toilet off the flange it looked like all the wax had been pushed away and the toilet 'horn?' was contacting the flange. I can press on the front of the flange and force it to sit flat but I think it may be putting too much strain on the waste pipe.
Can I attempt to screw the flange to the tile floor or should I cut the old flange out and install a new one? I would need to cut it below the floor somehow.
I am not sure if the flange was installed crooked or if the waste pipe itself is tilted.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
There have been frequent suggestions on this forum about how to replace flanges, and that may be the answer, but until you know where the problem originates. When you know that, then you can determine what you need to do. A lot of this will depend on access to the plumbing below the floor. Depending on what has to be done, and your DIY skills, you can then decided if professional help is needed.
 

flazoom

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
South Florida
Thank you for the response. I do not have access below the floor without removing part of the tiled floor or ripping out a ceiling from the first floor. I have already replaced flanges in 2 of my bathrooms. One half bath that was on cement slab where the flange was not screwed or even glued, just slipped in the waste pipe and in my 2nd floor master where i had to replace the subfloor (due to a leaking shower pan, now fixed) , which gave me easy access to cut the waste below floor level and add an extension to attach a new flange.
Is there an easy way to cut the waste pipe below the floor with out having to damage my floor or first floor ceiling? Another option would be to just attempot to screw the existing flange tight to tjhe tile. This will put some stress on the existing waste pipe, would this be an issue?
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
YOu don't want stress on the pipe, and with 1/2", you'd probably crack or bend the flange. They do make inside pipe cutters that would let you cut off the pipe, but you would not have any way to re-attach things since a repair coupling is about 1/2" larger in diameter than the pipe. Plus, unless you cut back far enough to adjust the angle, you'd still have the riser off plumb. You may need to cut out some ceiling.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,599
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
The pipe will NOT be stressed, but the flange will be. What is the flange itself made of, plastic or metal? It is almost impossible to install a flange "crooked" if the pipe itself is straight. There are ways to remove the flange, but few I would recommend to a DIYer, because if you do it wrong, you WILL damage the pipe, and might make it difficult, or impossible, to repair it without cutting into the floor.
 

flazoom

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
South Florida
Thanks again for the quick responses..
The flange itself is PVC. I have seen an 'extended closet flange' when I searched online that is about 6 inches long and 3x4 size which would fit my waste pipe. Since the inside 'collar' of the flange (it is set inside the 4 inch waste pipe) looks to be about 3 -4 inches below floor level would a longer flange work in this situation? If there is a good chance I may screw this up and have to cut my floor I may have to hire a pro.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
See how far off plumb the riser to the flange is. PVC connections only have a very slight amount of slop and you'd be unlikely to get a decent connection while trying to compensate for that big of an angle. To get an internal mount flange to seal, you'd have to insert it a fair distance, and that would replicate the angle you already have. The best solution would be to go at it from below and replace enough to get the riser straight.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks