Threading pipe

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DIYPlumber1

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I am trying to thread some 1/2 pipe with a rigid manual pipe threader. My first attempt came out poorly and I looked at the dies in the threader and they were in poor shape. I replaced the dies. On my second attempt the threads were better but the second or third row always seems to have problems. I am using oil. Do I thread the pipe all the way at one time or do I need to back up the threader and clear the threads every few turns? Thanks.
 
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Practice makes perfect.

First, don't practice on the actual rough. It will suck if you have to cut off any damage, then you'll have to solder on a fitting, which isn't so bad either.

Some dies do work better when they are reversed during the tapping.

Practice on some copper stock, and eventually you'll get it right.
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Jadnashua

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Most any dies you can buy for threading pipe will work much better if you clear the cut by backing up. In most cases, there is not enough space in there for all of the chips to be released if it is a continuous cut...backing up, breaks them off so they eject easier.

Now, a high-speed machine works differently, and that's not an issue.
 

Gary Swart

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Back in the day on the farm, we used a lot of galvanized pipe and my dad had a set of Ridged dies which I now have. Don't use them anymore, but I found by trial and error that backing off to clear the cuttings was helpful.
 

hj

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quote; It will suck if you have to cut off any damage, then you'll have to solder on a fitting, which isn't so bad either.

Most threading is done on galvanized steel pipe, so HOW would you solder a fitting on it? (It would be REALLY BAD, if you tried it).
 
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Nope. You can thread copper pipe too. Some older houses came with different type of 1/2" copper that had a wider O.D. for roughs.

It's fairly obvious you can't solder iron.
 

hj

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I have never seen, or heard, of "copper" sch. 40 pipe. They do make "brass" pipe, however, but I doubt that is what this person is working with.
 
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