Threaded male adapters onto new shower diverter..?

[Lithnights]

I guess "most" answers the question of how you screwed in the adapters with the joints soldered? I use both Teflon tape and a wicked blue goo that gets all over everything. Just finished re-plumbing overhead after finding under-slab leaks, pressure-tested everything at 100psi and no pressure drop. (Actually saw a slight rise in the afternoon, which I blamed on the attic getting hot.) Seems to be holding water at 60 psi OK. Wife loves having hot water at the sink again. Life is good.

Only problem I've had with the adapters you illustrated is their QC is terrible as far as the size of the hexes goes. Won't matter if you use an adjustable wrench on them, but in one situation I had to use a deep socket and had a lot of trouble. Wound up taking a socket to HD and matching up 9 adapters to the socket. You'd have the same problem with a fixed open-end wrench.

You are correct. "Most" meant as many as I could do without leaving me no ability to tighten up the threaded adapters.

I guess I still wonder why companies make these diverters that have adapter inputs only. One is forced to use a threaded adapter instead of a sweat. I'd rather see everything be able to be sweated.

 

[Mikey]

Sweat is copper-only...

...whereas a threaded connection allows (e.g.) CPVC as well. The paranoids among us would require the molded adapters to go Cu->CPVC, but in any case it can be done more readily than if you started with sweat, and minimizes the risk of burning the house down. I've been a copper fan since I helped my dad build our house in the late 40s, but in my recent replumb project here I went with CPVC (replacing leaky copper) for several reasons, and have no regrets.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Lithnights]

...whereas a threaded connection allows (e.g.) CPVC as well. The paranoids among us would require the molded adapters to go Cu->CPVC, but in any case it can be done more readily than if you started with sweat, and minimizes the risk of burning the house down. I've been a copper fan since I helped my dad build our house in the late 40s, but in my recent replumb project here I went with CPVC (replacing leaky copper) for several reasons, and have no regrets.

Is CPVC allowed to carry hot and cold supply? Is that code?

 

[Toolaholic]

when you demo old showers

with galvey pipe ,you'll find unions

 

[Mikey]

Is CPVC allowed to carry hot and cold supply? Is that code?

As with any code-related question, "It depends." It's legal in my area, and because of water and soil issues, is preferred over copper by many.

 

[Lithnights]

As with any code-related question, "It depends." It's legal in my area, and because of water and soil issues, is preferred over copper by many.

I could see why it would be preferable.. at least to work with. Cutting and gluing pvc is a breeze... besides the stink.

My dad just saw some major plumbing work being done in a new house in south central PA, where the entire water system constructed using some sort of flexible hose to supply all the water. He said it reminded him of the plastic tubes used to supply water to refrigerators except only bigger.

I'm guessing this is different than cpvc but he didn't know what it was. Seemed pretty darn easy to work with...

 

[Cass]

Sounds like a PEX system.

 

[hj]

Female threads

Your problem is because you bought your DIY version of the valve from Home Depot or similar. The "trade" version that the plumber's use come in sweat inlets, in most cases. But not some of the less popular, or specialty valves, only come in threaded because the manufacturers do not want to set up for two different versions. In fact many of them have a problem getting the handles to turn in the correct direction.

 

[Toolaholic]

many times the sweat version of the valve

is boxed on a near by shelf. given a choice , I'll sweat.

sometimes,Iinstall what the customer supplys