Test results in, help design system

[Larry in MN]

I have a new well and house that I need to set up with a water treatment system. I had the water tested by KAR labs on the recommendation of a member here. The results are below, I only listed the ones that were not zero or undetected.

I have 3 bathrooms used by 4 people. I am getting 15 gallons per minute at my water hydrant. Main water line to house is 1 1/4".

Calcium, total 58.6 mg/L
Iron, total 0.39 mg/L
Magnesium, total 22.5 mg/L
Manganese, total 0.031 mg/L
Potassium, total 1.0 mg/L
Sodium, total 1.7 mg/L
Sulfur, total, by ICP 5.8 mg/L
Zinc, total 0.15 mg/L
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) 229 mg/L
Bicarbonate (as CaCO3) 228 mg/L
Carbonate (as CaCO3) 1.35 mg/L
Color 15 color units
Conductivity 455 micromhos/cm
Corrosivity, Langelier Index 0.48 S.U.
Corrosivity, Ryznar Index 6.8 S.U.
Hardness 239 mg/L (as CaCO3)
Hardness (gpg) 14.0 grains/gallon
PH 7.8 S.U.
Salinity 0.227 ppt
Silica 9.4 mg/L
Sodium ads. ratio, adjusted 0.06
Sodium adsorption ratio 0.05
Sulfate 19 mg/L
Turbidity 5.14 NTU
Tot. diss. solids, estimated 305 mg/L

Thanks for the help!

 

[Reach4]

A 1.5 cubic ft "48000 grain" softener should do the job with some possible extra cleaning for the iron and using the iron-handling version of salt. Expect to get 30000 grains per regen because you will want to use a more salt-efficient setting.

If you also have an H2S problem, a softener will not deal with that. In that case you would want to add an iron+H2S filter. That would take some load off off the softener.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Larry in MN]

Thanks Reach,
The water does have a sulfur smell occasionally, usually when I first turn on the hydrant. What kind of iron filter would you use? I have read that Katalox does not treat sulfur, would a Pyrolox be a better choice? I have 15 gpm available for backwash. I would like to keep my service flow rate near 8 gpm if possible.

 

[Reach4]

Regarding the H2S, is that only hot by chance?

I would consider sanitizing your system -- well and plumbing and WH. You can do a quick sanitizing, and you may find that helps a lot. A more effective sanitizing will last longer. Some just dump xx amount of bleach down the well, and run all faucets until the smell of bleach is detected. I like a more complete process.

The first line of https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ has a link to a nice sanitizing article, but then I go into my possibly-overkill extension.

You could sanitize, install the softener, but leave room for a KL system if you decide to get that. I will say that my Centaur Carbon-based system is effective against my iron and H2S. I also have a powered anode.

The water does have a sulfur smell occasionally, usually when I first turn on the hydrant. What kind of iron filter would you use? I have read that Katalox does not treat sulfur,

Where did you read that?


KL calculator: http://watchwater.de/Backup/systems/kl_system.php seems to give big numbers about suggested quantity of media. Note that it is not very sensitive to the level of iron that you enter, but it is highly sensitive to the GPM that you say you want to run through it.

 

[ditttohead]

Agreed, and like was said above, where did you read that?

KL from a simplified standpoint is Clinoptilolite coated and impregnated with Pyrolox. Pyrolox is a manganese dioxide ore. Pyrolox is an amazing media but its excessive backwash requirements make it very difficult to properly apply. A 10" tank can easily require up to 16 GPM for a proper backwash. KL can be half that.

 

[Larry in MN]

Thanks for the replies, the well water is not turned on in the house yet. The water is on for the outside hydrants only. It is a new house and well so the sulfur smell and taste is in the cold water directly out of the well. The driller sanitized the well when it was drilled about 2 months ago.

I filled a clean water bottle this morning and the water goes in clean and clear but in 15 minutes turns bright yellow. I thought this was iron but the test shows a small amount in the water. Could this be the sulfur and sulfate?

I read about the Katalox on this page

https://www.uswatersystems.com/blog...nt-pyrolox-or-filox-to-remove-iron-or-sulfur/

It reviews the various iron filters and in the cons of Katalox light it states that it doesn't work for sulfur. If it does, that would be great!

 

[Larry in MN]

After doing a bit more reading it looks like I was misinformed and Katalox light does filter sulfur. So how big of a filter would I need? I see 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 cubic foot filters offered with the Fleck 2510 SXT valve with air injection priced from$995 to $1195

 

[ditttohead]

Air injection is a popular option, I usually don't recommend it. It creates a lot of air in the house that most people simply get used to, I never was able to. Yellow/orangish water can easily be caused by even small amounts of iron.

And... just because you read it online...

Much of what companies post on their websites is plagiarized over and over from other websites. Very little original material is available in the water treatment industry and especially among the online "water treatment dealers". Most of these companies have very little knowledge of what they are selling and simply rely on what is in their computer. The lack of field experience really shows with most online companies.

 

[Larry in MN]

I am not buying from USwatersystems, was just reading after a google search. What is a good source for Katalox filters? How about these guys, made in the USA. Any suggestions on size?

https://www.midatlanticwater.net/sh...leck-2-0-cubic-foot-fleck-2510aio-iron-filter