Tank T Leak

[Johnnyf0614]

Checking the drop pipe could save you alot of time, and you will be certain what the problem is.

Just for some history, I replaced a faulty above ground check valve with a new check valve. However when reconnecting, it cause several leaks at the connections thus causing me to contine to lose pressure. So I never really thought I was having problems with the drop line, as I have an above ground check valve that needed to be replaced. The new one worked fine, up until the leaks at the connections began to get worse.

 

[Reach4]

I agree, you are not losing air according to the symptoms.

Just for some history, I replaced a faulty above ground check valve with a new check valve.

What caused you to think that old check valve was faulty? It sure looks like the new on is faulty.

You probably have more than one problem not counting described leaks that presumably total well under 1/2 gallon per minute. If everything else was OK, there would be no job for your above-ground check valve to do.

Regarding a possible hole/leak in the drop pipe or pitless as Letsrunum suggests, you could pull the well cap and listen for running water. That could identify a problem, but it would not let you hear/see a problem below the water level. You could light up the inside of the casing, especially around the pitless adapter (about 3 or 4 feet below ground level), and look for a flow. For a light you could reflect the bright sun with a mirror, or use a bright flashlight. I would hope you would not contaminate the well while troubleshooting.

You might even be able to hear something with the well cap on and your ear against the well cap. I don't know. I have no experience with that.

Letsrunum's suspicion makes good sense, and if the problem is down the well, you should have a well specialist fix it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Johnnyf0614]

I agree, you are not losing air according to the symptoms.

What caused you to think that old check valve was faulty? It sure looks like the new on is faulty.

You probably have more than one problem not counting described leaks that presumably total well under 1/2 gallon per minute. If everything else was OK, there would be no job for your above-ground check valve to do.

Regarding a possible hole/leak in the drop pipe or pitless as Letsrunum suggests, you could pull the well cap and listen for running water. That could identify a problem, but it would not let you hear/see a problem below the water level. You could light up the inside of the casing, especially around the pitless adapter (about 3 or 4 feet below ground level), and look for a flow. For a light you could reflect the bright sun with a mirror, or use a bright flashlight. I would hope you would not contaminate the well while troubleshooting.

You might even be able to hear something with the well cap on and your ear against the well cap. I don't know. I have no experience with that.

Letsrunum's suspicion makes good sense, and if the problem is down the well, you should have a well specialist fix it.

About a month ago, I had noticed that my pump was running about every 15 minutes or so, while I had no water running. I saw that I had a check valve at the pressure tank. Disconnected it, took it to a plumbing store, and he too thought the check valve was broken. Purchased a replacement check valve, and reconnected everything. I had a leak at 2 of the re-connections, but it was very small. I saw that the new check valve was holding the pressure as well. I knew that I had to get the drips fixed, but left for a week for vacation. Turned the pump and everything off while away. Came back, and turned everything back on, and the drip progressively got worse as the past 2 weeks went on, and the pressure now began to reduce without water running again, which takes me to, to today, several very steady leaks between0 the check valve and pressure tank that will hopefully be repaired tomorrow with new piping. Everyone I spoke with never suspected any issues within the drop line, because I always had a working above ground check valve. Once that broke, and I replaced it, I caused more of the issue with the leaking connections...

And I guess there is a chance that the new check valve is suddenly broken too.

 

[Johnnyf0614]

When you got back from your vacation and turned the pump back on, do you remember if there was big delay before the water reached the pressure tank and maybe you got some air too?

You can just turn the pump off over night, when you get up in morning time, turn your pump back on and listen to see if there is a big delay.

No big delay that I can recall. I turned it off last night and back on again this morning, and started filling up right away. How big of a delay were you thinking?

 

[Johnnyf0614]

Nope

 

[Craigpump]

After you fix the leak in your drop pipe or offset, throw that POS tank away and replace it with a quality tank like a Well X Trol

 

[Johnnyf0614]

After you fix the leak in your drop pipe or offset, throw that POS tank away and replace it with a quality tank like a Well X Trol

Offhand. What makes you think my problem is at the drop line or offset?

 

[Johnnyf0614]

I'll let you know the result tomorrow. Just took a look at my leaks. It looks like I'm ultimately dripping in about 5 different spots about a drop per second. Hard to tell as there is a ton of sweating as well.

 

[Craigpump]

Hard to say from here, but any competent pump guy can have it figured out in 10 minutes or so.

 

[Johnnyf0614]

I agree, you are not losing air according to the symptoms.

What caused you to think that old check valve was faulty? It sure looks like the new on is faulty.

You probably have more than one problem not counting described leaks that presumably total well under 1/2 gallon per minute. If everything else was OK, there would be no job for your above-ground check valve to do.

Regarding a possible hole/leak in the drop pipe or pitless as Letsrunum suggests, you could pull the well cap and listen for running water. That could identify a problem, but it would not let you hear/see a problem below the water level. You could light up the inside of the casing, especially around the pitless adapter (about 3 or 4 feet below ground level), and look for a flow. For a light you could reflect the bright sun with a mirror, or use a bright flashlight. I would hope you would not contaminate the well while troubleshooting.

You might even be able to hear something with the well cap on and your ear against the well cap. I don't know. I have no experience with that.

Letsrunum's suspicion makes good sense, and if the problem is down the well, you should have a well specialist fix it.

By the way, I timed how long it takes to fill my tank from 40 to 60. It took 56 seconds.

 

[Johnnyf0614]

Hard to say from here, but any competent pump guy can have it figured out in 10 minutes or so.

Thanks again. I have a plumber coming tomorrow to fix my leaks. I'll keep you posted on the resolution and any next steps. I appreciate yours and everyone else's guidance!