tank pressure problems

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by sheilawiggins999, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. sheilawiggins999

    sheilawiggins999 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    for 25 years our well has been 85 ft and the pump a 1 hp-25 gpm at 120 feet with submersible pump and bladderless 300 gal. tank and supplies 7 houses with no problems. now our well is only 60 ft and 30 ft of water, so it must have caved in or something. replaced everything except well casing, only the new pump is 1 hp at 15 gpm at 80 ft and were having problems with pump short cycling and tank not building pressure. Do you think were pumping water faster than we can recover because our well isnt as deep as before and our pump is different? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,549
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Short cycling and tank not building pressure are two different things. If the pump is cycling on and off, it is producing more water than you are using, and a CSV will solve the cycling problem.

    If the pump will not fill the pressure tank and shut off, you are most likely running out of water.

    It could be both problems as the pump can cycle on and off UNTIL your well runs out of water, then the tank will not fill to shut off pressure.

    Anytime you shorten the depth of the well pump setting you are able to access less water from the well.
  3. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Location:
    IL
    I suspect that the method that kept air in your pressure tank was not replaced in the rework. Try the following search in your favorite search engine:
    "snifter valve" well

    For now to get water to the houses while working on a real fix, I would add air to the tank, releasing water in the process to keep the water pressure from going too high. I don't know how often is often enough. Is once per day enough?

    Then work on how the air is going to get in there without you having to babysit the system. You could restore your old system so that air is going to get in there without you having to babysit the system. . You could switch to a big pressure tank with a diaphragm that keeps the air or an array of pressure tanks with diaphragms. You could go to one new pressure tanks with a diaphragm along with the CSV that valveman suggests.

    For 7 houses sharing the well in an area with relatively shallow water, maybe a second well would give you worthwhile redundancy.

    I don't understand what 85 feet refers to.
  4. sheilawiggins999

    sheilawiggins999 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    new pump is at the same depth as the old pump ,the overall depth of the well has shortened.
  5. sheilawiggins999

    sheilawiggins999 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    This is how deep the well was drilled originally, and now we hit bottom at 60 feet.
  6. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,133
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    In your OP, you said "1 hp-25 gpm at 120 feet" so now I'm really confused.

    I think you need a pro on site that can properly diagnose what is going on.
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Location:
    IL
    My thinking now is that she is saying that the first pump was speced to deliver 25 GPM from 120 feet water level and the new pump is speced to deliver 15 GPM from 80 ft water level. The problem with that interpretation is that for a 1 HP pump, that seems backwards... a 1 HP pump designed for 80 feet down water would deliver more water from 80 ft than one designed for 120 ft down water would deliver from water 120 ft down.

    And we don't know how deep the pump is set. Maybe the pump is almost in the sand/mud?

    Yes, she needs a pro who knows the area. I wonder if a well cleaning is called for.
  8. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,133
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Agreed... Does not compute... For same HP, you have to trade GPM for depth.
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