Surfur odor / hot water- Refillable Cartridges- Big Blue

Users who are viewing this thread

JimSelena

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Waldorf, Maryland
Hello,

Thanks to this forum I repaired my well pump and installed a Big Blue sediment filter.

I'm looking at a carbon filter to reduce the iron dust even more, and I have read a carbon filter will reduce quite a bit of the sulfur odor. The cold water has little sulfur odor; the hot water has a strong odor.

Can any one know about the Big Blue refillable filters? Is it worth the effort to refill vice buy new filters when needed. And can anyone recommend which Big Blue filter I should use to reduce the iron dust and sulfur odor?
The hot water heater is 12 years old. Does anyone know if the hot water odor is stronger than cold water because the water is heated up? Or I'm thinking hot water heater coils are covered with hard sulfur scale that is causing the hot water to have a strong sulfur smell.

Thanks in advance. Jim
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,857
Reaction score
4,427
Points
113
Location
IL
The hot water smell is worse because a reaction, which usually includes the anode, is reacting to change sulfur compounds into H2S-- which is what you smell. I have a "powered anode" which protects the water heater as well as magnesium while not engaging in the reaction. So if the smell was only the the hot water, that could be good for you.


A big blue filter (is that 4.5 x 20 cartridges, or a smaller one) is good for taking out sediment. It is not going to be so good with what you need I expect. How often are you changing your filter cartridge now? It is more likely that a backwashing filter of some sort will be required to do a good job, unless your problems are very slight.

You should get a water test of your well water before trying to install solutions. I like Kar Labs Kit60 for most wells. http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/ I am not a pro.
 

JimSelena

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Waldorf, Maryland
The hot water smell is worse because a reaction, which usually includes the anode, is reacting to change sulfur compounds into H2S-- which is what you smell. I have a "powered anode" which protects the water heater as well as magnesium while not engaging in the reaction. So if the smell was only the the hot water, that could be good for you.


A big blue filter (is that 4.5 x 20 cartridges, or a smaller one) is good for taking out sediment. It is not going to be so good with what you need I expect. How often are you changing your filter cartridge now? It is more likely that a backwashing filter of some sort will be required to do a good job, unless your problems are very slight.

You should get a water test of your well water before trying to install solutions. I like Kar Labs Kit60 for most wells. http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/ I am not a pro.

The hot water smell is worse because a reaction, which usually includes the anode, is reacting to change sulfur compounds into H2S-- which is what you smell. I have a "powered anode" which protects the water heater as well as magnesium while not engaging in the reaction. So if the smell was only the the hot water, that could be good for you.


A big blue filter (is that 4.5 x 20 cartridges, or a smaller one) is good for taking out sediment. It is not going to be so good with what you need I expect. How often are you changing your filter cartridge now? It is more likely that a backwashing filter of some sort will be required to do a good job, unless your problems are very slight.

You should get a water test of your well water before trying to install solutions. I like Kar Labs Kit60 for most wells. http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/ I am not a pro.


Thanks so much!!!
 

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Jim,

I believe that I may be able to assist you very considerably in this matter, at least I hope so.

Where I am located, at least at my cabin along the Elkhorn River north of Fremont, Nebraska, the ground water is very high in Ferrous iron. Ferrous Iron is a divalent ion compound denoted as Fe-2 or Fe-II. The alternative compound is Ferric Iron which is trivalent and denoted as Fe-3 or Fe-III.

If your well water has a high concentration of Ferric Iron or Fe-III, you will usually be able to identify this right away as the water you pump out of the well will have a reddish-orange color and will stain and build up on all of your plumbing fixtures, wash basins and tubs. If it is bad enough, it will stain your clothes in the wash. EDIT: This form of iron can be mechanically filtered out of the water with appropriate cartridge type filters.

If your well water has a high concentration of Ferrous Iron, you will not be able to detect this with the naked eye. You might taste the difference if the concentration is high enough and you are attuned to the "flavor". The water you pump from the well will appear completely clear and absent of any discoloration that you would associate with iron rust. However, the same problems of staining will still occur over a longer period of time. The reason for this is that once the water containing Ferrous Iron is exposed to oxygen and warmer temperatures, a chemical or ionic change occurs and the Ferrous Iron which is dissolved in the water is oxidized or it "rusts" and changes to Ferric Iron. If you pump water containing Ferrous Iron to the surface and fill a clear container with the water and allow it to sit, exposed to warmer temps and oxygen, the water will eventually turn cloudy red or orange and precipitate out to leave a sediment of rust colored 'sludge' at the bottom of the container.

Ferrous Iron cannot be filtered out of the water by normal mechanical filtration methods. It functions like table salt dissolved in water. Once dissolved in water at an ionic or molecular level, it passes through the finest of mechanical filters and only cell membrane walls can stop it.

Ferric Iron, on the other hand, is a larger particle and it precipitates out of the water and becomes a sediment which can be mechanically filtered out.

If you can understand the difference between these two forms of iron, then you can wage battle on the iron itself and eliminate it or remove it from your water.

Before I get into explaining how to do that, I will explain one more item. The smell or odor of rotten eggs from your water. There are several sources and reasons for this odor. I am going to address only one of these as it pertains to Iron.

A certain bacteria exists which thrives on iron. It is its "food source" for a lack of a better terminology. The horrible or unworthy odor you are greeted with is basically bacteria "farts" and the scent of their "poop"! EDIT: This bacteria is resident in the water underground. It is naturally occurring and almost always present at some level. Because of the lack of oxygen and the cooler temperatures underground, you don't notice the effects of this bacteria until you pump the water to the surface and expose it to oxygen and higher temperatures. That is when the rotten egg or sulfur odor becomes noticeable. It is also why the water from the water heater will smell moreso than the cold tap water does.

As disgusting and unpleasant as that sounds, none of this can harm you at the levels that exist in any well. It is all harmless, but it is very distasteful, I will agree.

I am going to stop here and post this much and then I have to reboot my computer as it is giving me fits.

Back in a jiffy!

Gordy
 
Last edited:

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
My computer is not cooperating. Look up B.I.R.M. media and do your research on it! This stuff works GREAT!

Gordy
 

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
I can continue now that my PC is cooperating a little better.

B.I.R.M. is a special filter media. It is a natural mineral that is mined, but it has also been prepared for use as a water filter media by coating the particles with a catalyst. This catalyst reacts in the presence of Fe-II and oxygen to convert the Fe-II to Fe-III upon contact. The B.I.R.M. media then operates as an actual mechanical filter media to trap the Fe-III particles.

When the B.I.R.M. media becomes full of Fe-III, you don't replace it, you simply backwash it with fresh water. No chemical treatment is used, unlike other iron removal filters. Manganese greensand iron filters require you to soak and flush the media with a solution of Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) which is toxic. If the Fe-II content of the water is low, you can use a standard water softener to remove most of the iron. A special softener resin bed media and certain types of recharge salt can be applied if the content is a little higher. But this requires the use of the consumable recharge salt and if the iron content is too high, the softener bed media will eventually be damaged by the iron.

The B.I.R.M. media requires none of these special treatments. Simple backwashing is all that is needed and the media virtually lasts forever, if maintained properly. You cannot use chemicals such as chlorine (or softener salt) as that will strip away the catalytic coating and if there is any hydrocarbons or oils in the water source, that will occlude the media.

You can easily and inexpensively construct a DIY B.I.R.M. filter from PVC pipe (4-6") and a few fittings, screens and flow control valves.

B.I.R.M. is manufactured by the Clack Corporation.

Gordy
 
Last edited:

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
You can make a DIY BIRM filter out of PVC pipe, as I mentioned earlier. OR...

You can ask to a local plumbing company to save you a junked out water softener. If the valves and electrical controls are still in working order and the only problem is that the resin media has gone bad due to contamination or maintenance neglect, you can simply open the resin canister, dump out the resin beads and dispose of them. Then, refill the canister with the BIRM media and replumb the system to omit the salt brine tank. Now, if the electrical controls and valves of the junk water softener are still working as I mentioned before, you have a ready made BIRM iron filter for virtually no material cost but the BIRM media and a few connection fittings.

The BIRM media isn't very expensive. Best price I found is about $75 for one cubic foot, depending upon where you purchase it.

If you plumb this BIRM filter upstream from a water softener (don't put the softener ahead of the BIRM filter because the salt / chlorine from the softener will damage the catalyst) you have a great whole house iron filter and water softening system for a very low cost. Add a good, porous sediment filter ahead of the BIRM filter to trap sand and silt.

Gordy
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,857
Reaction score
4,427
Points
113
Location
IL
I think BIRM is not usually suggested with a sulfur smell.
 

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
It should be, as the sulfur smell is most often the result of hydrogen sulfide which is produced by iron eating (consuming) bacteria. If there is iron in the well water, there will be iron consuming bacteria and therefore hydrogen sulfide emission.

BIRM controls the iron, so that controls the bacteria and therefore the sulfur odor goes away.

Gordy
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,857
Reaction score
4,427
Points
113
Location
IL
Birm has some advantages in that it is reasonably priced and does not have excessive backwash needs. It does not work well in acid water. We have not seen Jim's water test results.

However I think Jim would benefit from a media that removes H2S well, in addition to iron. The water test will not show H2S, but the nose does.
 

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Birm has some advantages in that it is reasonably priced and does not have excessive backwash needs. It does not work well in acid water. We have not seen Jim's water test results.

However I think Jim would benefit from a media that removes H2S well, in addition to iron. The water test will not show H2S, but the nose does.


Reach,

That is one of the precursors to applying a BIRM filter. If any H2S is present in the water, it has to be removed prior to the iron removal and filtration. H2S is responsible for the rotten egg smell or the sulfurous odor and it is also one of the byproducts from the iron devouring bacteria. There are other sources of H2S besides this.

If this odor is present immediately when the water is pumped from the well, then another avenue of treatment must be applied as a precursor to the BIRM filter. This treatment is probably going to entail chlorine shock treatment in the well bore. That, if not other means. However, most often, the H2S odor is from the iron and the bacteria and develops AFTER the water is pumped from the well. The bacteria begins to colonize in the static water inside the well and in the plumbing pipes and especially the water heater.

Gordy
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,857
Reaction score
4,427
Points
113
Location
IL
Katalox Light and Centaur Carbon (which my iron+H2S filter uses) will remove both in a single media.

However I agree that the sanitizing can help a lot.

I think you are referring to reactions where bacteria produce Fe2S and S?
 

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Also, the pH of the well water must be determined before applying a BIRM filter. It should not be lower than 6.8 or higher than 8.5. This can be easily remedied with a pH buffer. The Clack corporation recommends a bed of Corosex, calcite or soda ash.

Gordy
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,857
Reaction score
4,427
Points
113
Location
IL
Last edited:

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,626
Reaction score
1,301
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com

ACWxRADR

Member
Messages
145
Reaction score
6
Points
18
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
There is a word for it - although I cannot recall it - but when it pertains to H2S, you can detect it by the odor for a short time, then it causes your olfactory to shut down and you no longer smell it and you do not realize that anything is wrong. This is especially so at high levels. This is why people succumb to its presence and die.

If there is a great concentration of H2S in a well, this would be very bad. So what I believe most people smell from their well water is an iron - sulfur compound and not H2S.

EDIT: I made a quick search of H2S in wells and came up with these nice links:

http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/wells/waterquality/hydrosulfide.html

http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/resource/how-to-guides/how-to-treat-sulfur-odors-in-well-water/

Very informative.


Gordy
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks