sump pit level above inlet/drains?

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tjc50

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Lived in this house for 2.5 years and taking care of small fixes/updates one at a time. When we bought this place the existing old sump pump took a dump so I replaced it with a zoeller n53 hydrocheck electronic float switch and an aquanot 5x5 battery backup. Now previous owner had the float switch to kick on around 3-5" below the bottom of the 4" slab floor. This position normally would sit about .5-1" above the 4" perimeter tile or footer tile. When I replwced everything I set the switch to come on right below the perimeter tile inlet. Witht the new setup my pump activates every 30-60 minutes depending on weather and water table. Sometimes it will pump every 10 minutes but usually every 45 minutes. We have a high water table and clay soil. I recently dug a trench and plumbed my pump discharge to my pond which I used 4" pvc sloped about 1" per 2-3 ft for a 20 ft run into my pond outfront. Now I started researching on wether or not to allow the perimeter footer drain to remain submerged or not to. When I set the float switch to kick on like the previous owner had it (above drain tile 3-5" below bottom of slab floor) the pump will only run about once or twice a day. I think when the ground dries up soon it will hardly pump at all. The problem is the footer tile will remain full of water. We have never had water in the basement except when a power outage happened. So whats the opinion here allow footer tile to remain full and hardly activate the pump? Or pump before it reaches the inlet and pump it every 10-60 minutes 24/7. I reqlly dont like the pump being on in short 10-20 second bursts all of the time. It's nice to see it pump a solid minute only a couple times of day while it empties the pit plus the tile. One other issue is the zoeller pumps my pit and tile to fast and the pump shuts off while the rest of the tile is draininf into the pit and immedietly fills it back up. It would be nice to slow the pump down and have it fully empty the drainage tile to slow the overall fill rate. I was actually thinking of installing a ball valve to slow the pumping rate down on the primary pump to do this. I know it will add some stress to the pump itself . Hopefully this wall of madness comes out somewhat clear and I apologize for being all over the place thanks
 

tjc50

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Sump pit only has one 4" drain tile entrance the other 4" is a capped floor drain which has tile over it in the finished basement. After re position the float switch to allow the pipe to remain full of water I am watching the opposite corner of my basement to watch for seepage or moisture problems. If I lower it to before the pipe fills I feel like im fightint a loosing battle pumping the natural water table height which seems to be 4ish" below the bottom of my slab
 

Jadnashua

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Personally, as long as the water is below the slab, the level switch doesn't need to go lower. The fact that the drain lines remain full just means that's where the water table is. Depending on the porosity of the soil, you'll never be able to pump it dry, and it can refill quickly at times. It's when the bottom of the slab is sitting in water that you can get some weeping into and through the slab.

So, it ends up a compromise to keep the cycles down. Lower may be required. A good interval to strive for is a pump cycle at least a minute long, and a bit longer probably won't hurt. It's the cycles that tend to wear things out, and the starting surge doesn't help along with the frequent noises of it starting and stopping.
 

Reach4

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You could use the ball valve if you are careful to not close the valve.

Suppose you just separate the probes on the Hydrocheck HC6000 control more to not have the pump turn on until the water is higher?
 

tjc50

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Its a hydrocheck 7000 rated for laundry and water softener. I tried the 6000 the bottom low side prong became corroded throwing off the level of the sensors. The single 7000 has been rock solid for a year now. I still have a few days to see id this higher setting and allowing tiles to fill will effect the slab or moisture level in the basement but so far so good. I probably will cut and install a ball valve useing rubber couplers so I can remove if It doesnt work out. I figure close the ball valve just a touch to make the n53 run longer and pump more of the tile before it has time to refill after the pump shuts off. Have to find a good balance. Its impressive how fast the 1/3 hp zoeller pumps the water. I may even try the new liberty 240 1/4 hp without a ball valve could be the balance im after
 

tjc50

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Yes sir. It actually only sucks air for the first cycle say after you move the switch you reset it. Then it seems to correct itself after. The followibg cycles stop just before air is pulled almost like it detects the slightest current drop of less work from the motor as the water drops... I actually wonder if a taller vertical float would work better as it would float and drop with the water level. I have no room for a tether float with 2 pumps in the pit.
 

tjc50

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Forgot to mention soil is all clay around here... Was also wondering if reducing pipe down to 1" instead of 1.5 would slow the pump down instead of a ball valve
 

Reach4

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Forgot to mention soil is all clay around here... Was also wondering if reducing pipe down to 1" instead of 1.5 would slow the pump down instead of a ball valve
The valve would have the advantage that you could raise the flow if you had a big rain.
 

tjc50

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That and dial in the choke of flow too hopefully it works and doesnt hurt the pump in the long run
 
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