Suggestions for converting to Natural Gas Boiler

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Nicholas Love

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Hello Everyone,

I am getting ready to convert over to natural gas now that my town is running a line to my area. So I will be changing out my fuel oil boiler. I am looking for suggestions as to the most efficient/cost effective system to heat a ~1400 Sq. Ft Single Story Ranch on a cinder block slab. I live in upstate NY and we have some long/cold winters. I only have one zone to heat. My boiler heats my based board heat as well as domestic hot water. Would it be best to get a boiler and an indirect hot water heater or to use a Combi unit?? How many BTU do I REALLY need?? My current Weil-Mclain is 104,00 BTU, which I think is large for my home. I have had 3 contractors come and give me an estimate. The first suggested a Weil-Mlcain GV boiler with an indirect hot water heater. The other 2 have suggested combi units, Lochnivar Cadet and Bosch Greenstar Combi... Does anyone have any experience with either of the 2 combi units I listed? Which setup would be most effective for what I need? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
 

Jadnashua

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First, you really need to do or have done a heat loss analysis. It wouldn't hurt to call your utility company and see if they're offering a free inspection which may also include plugging up some air leaks. Depending on your age and income level, NYS and the feds did nearly $5k worth of insulation, and other work on my mother's house all at totally no direct cost to her. Well worth asking - free is always nice (well, we pay for it in our utility bills and taxes, but hey!).

My personal experience with a combi was not great. For one of those to work, the boiler temp must be high 24/7. A good indirect may only call for the boiler 1-2x per day, so if it is capable of cold starting (many are, nearly no oil burners can reliably), you're not keeping the boiler running when nobody is using hot water since an indirect tank is usually VERY well insulated. SOme of the best ones only cool off at about 1/4-degree per hour, so essentially no standby losses to speak of.

Without a heat loss analysis (manual-J) you're just blowing smoke. Nearly 100% of old boiler installations were way oversized, often 2-4x. That worked when energy costs were cheap, but it didn't help for comfort, efficiency, or longevity of the equipment. I wouldn't be surprised if your heat load came in at around 30KBTU, and on a milder day, much less. They just don't make a boiler that small! With an indirect, when that calls for heat, they generally have it as a priority zone, so it gets all of the heat from the boiler while it's making the indirect hot. THis gets it hot quicker, and then it reverts to normal house space heating. Even when it's been super cold, I've never noticed the house cooling off while that happens.
 
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