submersible pump and pipe routing

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by gizmodiy, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. gizmodiy

    gizmodiy New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Toronto, ON
    I am replacing a jet pump with a submersible pump (1.2 hp, 2-wire, 10 GPM) in a lake application. In the process I am moving the hot water tank (from outside to inside - don't ask!). My question is with respect to the placement of the pressure tank, pressure switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, hot water tank as well as what's advisable in terms of bends in the piping. I'm planning on using 1" piping.

    Every diagram I have seen, including the one that comes with the pump, shows all of the above pieces placed horizontal. However, I'm short on space and I would like to have it vertical. Since this needs to drain by gravity as well for the winter, I think being vertical is that much better.

    1. Does the attached diagram look like it would work well?
    2. Is there an issue with putting the pressure switch on the piping that goes from the main vertical pip 2013-01-06 10.50.58.jpg e to the horizontal one that goes to the pressure tank?
    3. Is the 90 degree bend in the pipe (horizontal to vertical piping at the bottom the the picture) ok? Will it cause issues?
    3. What is the recommended kind of piping (PVC, copper, pex, brass, ?). I'm leaning to brass but I don't have a reason in mind. I'm reading that using two wrenches for a snug and grunt fit is all I would need for brass, no soldering. I'd use pex for all piping into the dwelling, and poly to the submersible pump.

    Thank you in advance!
  2. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    No reason to have a ball valve between the tank and the pump. If it should get turned off the pump would just continue to run untill it burnt itself out.

    John
  3. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,919
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    I question why 1.5 HP? What is the vertical rise from the lake surface to warrant that much HP for just 10 GPM?

    Put the PRV before the ball valve, not after it.
  4. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    What would be the reason for the ball valve in that location to start with?

    John
  5. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,919
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Only the OP can answer that. Putting the PRV before it mitigates the risk you identified.
  6. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,244
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    You should not install a shut of before the pressure tank.
    You will want to have one after the tank, and then another after the water heater.
  7. gizmodiy

    gizmodiy New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Toronto, ON
    >> I question why 1.5 HP?
    Sorry, typo. Its a 1/2 HP, 230V, 2 wire. The vertical height from the resting point in the lake to all the pressure take is no more than 20 feet. The distance is about 135 feet.
  8. gizmodiy

    gizmodiy New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Toronto, ON
    I'm fairly week in the drawing department :) At the very bottom of the picture I've tried to draw a "T" where one direction goes to the lake and the other allow water to drain out of the system when I need to void the interior pipes for the winter. The dwelling is not heated in the winter or used in the winter.

    Here's my rationale for the ball values....

    The left side of the T at the bottom is to allow water to drain out of the system without having to drain the water to the lake on the right side. This would allow me to fix any issues without having to drain the pipe to the lake. Now that I think about it I can't see a reason to have a ball valve to the right of the T ... because if the power to the pump was turned off, then I could open the left side to drain, and the right would stay filled. Does this sound correct?

    The ball valve going into the hot water tank allows me to shut off water coming in if I need to fix/replace the water tank. The valve after the water tank allows me to shut off the hot water to the dwelling in case I need to fix something inside the dwelling. I also account for some kind of T there to allow me to drain the hot water tank for the winter.

    I'm not following the suggestion on where to put the PRV? Where should it go and why?
  9. gizmodiy

    gizmodiy New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Toronto, ON
    Thank you for the feedback! Any opinions on

    1. The placement of the Pressure Switch, which I have on the horizontal pipe to the pressure tank? Any issues with this?
    2. The configuration being vertical instead horizontal? Any issues with this?
  10. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Or you could use one of these.
    [​IMG]
    Because the Pside-kick kit uses a CSV, you only need the 4.5 gallon pressure tank, and it can be mounted verticle or any direction you need.
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