Stupid Newbie Question - Leaks in new faucet connection

[Timber47]

I realize this is a really basic, stupid question. I have never installed a faucet myself before.

I installed a new faucet and cannot get the connection between the copper line from the new faucet and the water lines to quit leaking. I used 3 wraps of Teflon and I tighten them as much as I can but still a bead of water is leaking out of each one. What am I doing wrong? Photo below.

 

[Jerome2877]

Well it looks like you have broken the soldered joint done by the manufacture for the supply tubes. These are not meant to be turned, they are meant to have either a braided supply hose or plastic supply tube's threaded on then attatched to shut off valves under the sink. The joint might be able to be resoldered but then you would need new shut offs installed and supply hoses to attach them. This is depending on the copper tubes not being to twisted or damaged from this.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Timber47]

I didn't break or touch any soldering. The previous faucet had copper pipes that were attached in exactly the same way that these are. There was no soldering at that connection. The way I removed the old one was by simply unscrewing the nut holding it in place, and it looked the same as the one on the new one. The top of the shut off valve can be seen just at the lower left of the photo.

Edit: I just checked the other bathroom faucets in my home (which were identical to the one I just replaced). They are connected in this same way. With a copper tube that sits in the supply pipes and is held in place with an unsoldered nut just like this one. I can take a photo of it if you like.

 

[Jerome2877]

The old faucet was probably old and used a swivel nut for the supply that conected directly to that copper fitting. The new faucet is not meant to be connected in this way, the top nut that you turned into the copper fitting is not meant to be turned so where its leaking is because you broke the manufactured soldered joint.

 

[Timber47]

Not meant to be turned? It wasn't even connected to the copper piece when I opened the package. I had to slide it on myself.

 

[Timber47]

Here's a photo from my downstairs bathroom which has the exact same sink and faucet as the one I just replaced. And the nut is not soldered. It screws off.

 

[Jadnashua]

If the connection is a compression fitting, then NO tape can be used. Using teflon tape will CAUSE it to leak. Did you have to put on a ring to the pipe after the nut? If so, it is a compression fitting. I'd have to see both the end of the pipe and the fitting at the wall to be sure what you have.

 

[Timber47]

I tried it without tape first and that leaked even more :-/ But no, no sort of ring was on the pipe after the nut.

 

[Jerome2877]

Ok sorry the teflon was blocking the threads, yep remove the teflon and make sure the compresion ring is on then retighten.

 

[hj]

The tape is not helping OR hurting the connection, but since the compression ferrule is sticking through the nut, I assume you have overtightened it and damaged both the tubing and the compression joint. Take it apart and start over, but you will probably have to cut the faucet tube shorter and improvise a new connection.

 

[Jimbo]

Timber47, according to the installation instructions for that faucet model, there are supposed to be adapters that go on the ends of the copper tubes, and to which standard supplies are attached. Evidently you are not
using those adapters; what you are trying to work with is anybody's guess, since Price Pfister doesn't say. Might be metric, or some other non-US-standard fittings.

Well, not exactly. The faucet may or may not come with a compression to 1/2" IP adapter. But he does not need that since he is making a direct connection. The question we must ask timber47 is " what is that fitting which you are attaching the faucet line to?". We assume it is a 3/8 compression fitting, but you need to be sure. Probably is because threads showing do not appear to be pipe threads. If it is still leaks, you need to start at zero. Get a tubing cutter and cut off an inch of possibly damaged tubing. Get a new compression ferrule from a hardware store. Tighten snugly but not overtight. No teflon tape, but use a drop of oil on ferrule and threads.