Stove Wire Repair

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by Kiko, Mar 6, 2011.

  1. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    One of the wires to a stove burner shorted out (I think the cleaning lady had pulled on it ). Now, I need to cut off several inches of burned out wire and add a few inches of new wire so it will be long enough to reach the ceramic connector at the burner.

    The wire says 150 C, but I can't make out the AWG. Does anyone know the correct replacement wire for this, and if I can just use a high temp wire nut to complete the repair?
  2. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,529
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Instead of repairing the conductor why not replace the entire length using a Type Z or TFE conductor?
  3. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    My other option is to replace the entire wire harness, which I would prefer to avoid, since I only need about 4" of wire replaced.

    My main concern is finding the correct gauge wire. I called two place that sell high temp conductors by the foot, but they are both 14 gauge. That just doesn't seem right for a stove burner??
  4. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    14 ga. wire will handle 15 amps. That is 3600 watts, 240, and the burners are not that big.
  5. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,529
    Location:
    North Carolina
    If you insist on patching the wire please use a ceramic wire nut
  6. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    I've already bought the ceramic wire nut. :)

    Second question: is there a place on my Croc's wire stripper to crimp on a high temp crimp terminal? Can a pliers work? Or do I need to buy a special crimper?



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    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  7. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

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    Location:
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    why not just buy a ceramic twist on wire nut?
    The use of a pressure connector you take a chance of damaging the insulation and you will be right back to where you are now
  8. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    The ceramic wire nut is to connect one end to the existing conductor. The crimp-on terminal is what is needed to connect the other end to the burner. A screw passes through the eye of the terminal, and holds it in place. So, will I need a special crimping tool, or will my Croc's work for this?

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    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  9. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

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    Yes I am stupid and this proves it.
    Squeeze her down
  10. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Location:
    New England
    Because of the heat, there is more expansion/contraction of the connectors and it becomes somewhat critical to ensure you get a good crimp. If it isn't tight enough or properly indented, it can loosen, change the resistance, and fail again. There are calibrated crimping tools that won't release until you've completed the proper compression. They have fingers or shaping dies designed for the specific connector, wire size, and application. You may not have trouble, but it is a potential weak point if it is not done well.
  11. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Turned out, I didn't need to splice in any new wire. I just crimped on new terminals (I ended up replacing four terminals) using a vice grips and got a nice crimp.

    Thanks to all who responded. :)
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Location:
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    If you did NOT get a good crimp, you will eventually know about it when the added restistance causes the connection to burn out again.
  13. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,529
    Location:
    North Carolina

    message deleted, I told you this type of post would not be allowed

    See the highlighted part in the quote above
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2011
  14. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

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    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    How do you crimp anything with vice grips? May as well use a hammer.
  15. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    I thought it was strange too, but the owner of the hardware store where I bought the terminals suggested it, and the connections seemed very good.
  16. Kiko

    Kiko New Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    The connections only shorted out after the house cleaner pulled on the wires when cleaning the stove. I pulled hard on these crimps, and they seemed very solid. I'm not sure what you mean by "added resistance" ???
  17. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,809
    Location:
    New England
    If the connection gets loose, it will act like a resistor, heat up like the heating element. The connector metal has some spring to it. Once heated and cooled depending on how good the connection is, it can lose its temper or springiness, and when it expands, not contract again so it no longer makes a good connection. That's why the crimper tool is more science than art...hard to determine if you got a proper crimp. Often, it really doesn't matter much. But, on high current and things like heating elements when exposed to extremes in temp, it can make a big difference. Time will tell. The proper crimping tool takes this all into account, and uses the best shape and compression to form a reliable, long-lasting, low resistance connection. SOmetimes, this is overkill; sometimes, it is essential.
  18. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Which is why its a very good practice to re-torque large breakers with aluminum cables in them sometime after installation.
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