I still don’t understand. You have a sub in the well with a 50/70 pressure switch? Then it goes through the jet pump with an AG80 that has a 40/60 pressure switch? I don’t understand why you are double pumping?
standard vs constant pressure pump opinions please
- Thread starter madfire
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Waterwelldude
Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer
I am not the only one pulling off the same line. If every one is using water I do not get much water. I am pulling water out of the line, when the pressure is low on my side.
I will have my pressure when others are low, or at peak times.
Thats why I have my little setup.
If I were the only one on the line, you are right.
Double pumping would be a waste.
I will have my pressure when others are low, or at peak times.
Thats why I have my little setup.
If I were the only one on the line, you are right.
Double pumping would be a waste.
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Ok I see what you are doing. I would do the same thing. It is almost exactly like boosting city water. I presume the main well sometimes has low pressure or you wouldn’t need to boost. I always like to look for the worst case scenario, because Murphy is a big part of my life. If something can wrong, it will.
When boosting pressure from city or a well, your booster pump starts out with some pressure coming into it. If you are boosting from a well with a 50/70 pressure switch, your booster pump doesn’t come on as long as the well can keep up. When more people are using water and the well pressure drops below 50, your 50/70 pressure switch starts the booster pump. The pressure coming from the well pump is added to the amount of pressure the booster pump can build. So if the booster pump can build 60 and you have 40 coming in, the pump can boost up to 100 PSI.
The AG80 has a little plunger that slides over the opening to the pressure switch, when there is more than about ½ GPM being used. The pressure varies according to the pressure the pump can build at different flow rates, added to the amount of pressure coming in. A pump that can build a max of 60 PSI, can probably build 50 PSI at 5 GPM, 40 PSI at 10 GPM , and 30 PSI at 15 GPM. So when you have 15 GPM being used in the yard, the pump adds 30 PSI to the average 30 coming from the well pump, for 60 PSI in the house. When you are using 10 GPM with multiple outlets in the house, the pump is adding 40 PSI to the 30 coming, so you have 70 in the house. A 5 GPM shower running by itself would get 50 PSI from the booster pump, plus 30 from the well, and 80 PSI should be blasting away in the shower. When all the water is shut off, the little plunger in the AG80 drops down and lets the pressure switch see the 80 PSI, so with a 50/70 pressure switch on the jet pump, it should go off instantly.
Worst case would be when the well pump is at 48 PSI, and you are only using a 2 GPM kitchen faucet. The little plunger hides the pressure switch, and the booster pump adds 55 PSI to the 48 coming, so the house sees 103 PSI. I can see where you would need to make sure you have the pressure relief adjusted to over 103 PSI, so it wouldn’t pop off. Or you could add a pressure reducing valve to the house supply, and maintain a steady 60 PSI all the time.
I can see why you like the AG80, as they really work great in these cases. I think they are one of the most brilliant ideas every developed for a booster pump.
The only advantage a CSV would have in one of these cases, is that it works like both the AG80 and the pressure reducing valve at the same time. The booster pump would still use a 50/70 pressure switch. The CSV would maintain 60 PSI, as long as more than 1 GPM was being used, no matter the incoming pressure from the well pump. Then when all the faucets are turned off, the CSV would allow a small pressure tank to fill to 70 PSI, and the pressure switch would shut off the pump. So an AG80 working with a Pressure Reducing Valve, works very similar to how a CSV functions.
If Franklin is not thinking about putting one of those on every jet pump, they should be.
When boosting pressure from city or a well, your booster pump starts out with some pressure coming into it. If you are boosting from a well with a 50/70 pressure switch, your booster pump doesn’t come on as long as the well can keep up. When more people are using water and the well pressure drops below 50, your 50/70 pressure switch starts the booster pump. The pressure coming from the well pump is added to the amount of pressure the booster pump can build. So if the booster pump can build 60 and you have 40 coming in, the pump can boost up to 100 PSI.
The AG80 has a little plunger that slides over the opening to the pressure switch, when there is more than about ½ GPM being used. The pressure varies according to the pressure the pump can build at different flow rates, added to the amount of pressure coming in. A pump that can build a max of 60 PSI, can probably build 50 PSI at 5 GPM, 40 PSI at 10 GPM , and 30 PSI at 15 GPM. So when you have 15 GPM being used in the yard, the pump adds 30 PSI to the average 30 coming from the well pump, for 60 PSI in the house. When you are using 10 GPM with multiple outlets in the house, the pump is adding 40 PSI to the 30 coming, so you have 70 in the house. A 5 GPM shower running by itself would get 50 PSI from the booster pump, plus 30 from the well, and 80 PSI should be blasting away in the shower. When all the water is shut off, the little plunger in the AG80 drops down and lets the pressure switch see the 80 PSI, so with a 50/70 pressure switch on the jet pump, it should go off instantly.
Worst case would be when the well pump is at 48 PSI, and you are only using a 2 GPM kitchen faucet. The little plunger hides the pressure switch, and the booster pump adds 55 PSI to the 48 coming, so the house sees 103 PSI. I can see where you would need to make sure you have the pressure relief adjusted to over 103 PSI, so it wouldn’t pop off. Or you could add a pressure reducing valve to the house supply, and maintain a steady 60 PSI all the time.
I can see why you like the AG80, as they really work great in these cases. I think they are one of the most brilliant ideas every developed for a booster pump.
The only advantage a CSV would have in one of these cases, is that it works like both the AG80 and the pressure reducing valve at the same time. The booster pump would still use a 50/70 pressure switch. The CSV would maintain 60 PSI, as long as more than 1 GPM was being used, no matter the incoming pressure from the well pump. Then when all the faucets are turned off, the CSV would allow a small pressure tank to fill to 70 PSI, and the pressure switch would shut off the pump. So an AG80 working with a Pressure Reducing Valve, works very similar to how a CSV functions.
If Franklin is not thinking about putting one of those on every jet pump, they should be.
Waterwelldude
Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer
No it does not add to the pressure that is coming from the well. The water system I built does not go over 60 psi or under 50 psi. I built it, it was not copied from a book.
The pump curve for any given pump, is just a rough guide line on what the pump can do, or should do.
A pump can do a lot more or less than the curve says it can, in the right, setting/environment.
Good luck.
The pump curve for any given pump, is just a rough guide line on what the pump can do, or should do.
A pump can do a lot more or less than the curve says it can, in the right, setting/environment.
Good luck.
Please explain how it does not add to the incoming pressure, how you keep the pressure between 50 and 60, and how a pump can do more or less than it's curve. I like to learn something new everyday.
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