Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
Any plumbers ever soldered a threaded connection that you know will never need removal for any reason?
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steveg91 said:So do you brush/flux then tighten the connection as tight as you normally would, then solder???? Reason I ask is I always sorda thought there needed to be a little space for the solder to get way into the joint???
Steve
RUGGED said:First, I've been doing a great deal of faucet replacements for tub and showers. Seems like I have some Deltas that are IPS valves.....and I use either male or female adaptors depending on it's application. For years I've been jigging those up with tape and dope.
The problem was the issue of having the heat get to those doped connections because I either have a close 90 or even street 90 coming out of the first fitting and jigging that up doesn't work always.
So...I've been soldering them with good result. Been doing this on B&K 1/4 turn laundry tub faucets as well. Most if not always I have no intention of ever taking the connection back apart on the laundry tub; it's already a union joint and I'm not too stingy to throw 2 MIP's and couple pieces of copper to the mix to get it done.
It's just that I need a positive solid connection in the concealed areas and so far I've not had any problems with this technique. If those valves ever come back out.....I'm always cutting the pipe at the threads closest to the valve and sweating the old cut pieces back off anyway.
Can't afford a taped threaded leak in a wall because I couldn't prevent the transfer of heat. I just started doing this about 2 months ago and it is helping my peace of mind.
Cartridge and all rubber 0-rings are removed from what I'm soldering if anyone thinks I'm frying those internals. Been there done that about 19 years ago.
Cass said:To prevent the leak at a threaded connection from heat transfer, solder a nipple on to the male adp. then thread it in.
This is awkward, but...
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