Soldering pipe to shower valve

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by ragtop68rs, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. ragtop68rs

    ragtop68rs New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Grand Rapids,Mi.
    Guys, what's the trick to doing this? I removed the cartridge and I'm trying to solder in the copper pipe but I can't seem to get it hot enough. Should I be heating the pipe, the valve or both at the same time? Thanks, John
  2. ImOld

    ImOld New Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    In the rumble seat
    Lots of possibilties.

    You should be heating the cleaned and fluxed joint itself on all sides as much as possible.

    Should take no more than 30 seconds before it sucks the solder up into the joint.

    You do not need to feed the joint solder until it's running and dripping on eveything.

    If the torch is of sufficient capacity and the flame shape is correct as in forcefull and pointy.

    If there is no water whatsoever in the the joint.

    Applies to all solder joints.
  3. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    The shower valve body has a lot of mass and takes more time to bring up to temperature than the pipe or other fittings. You want to try to heat both sides of the joint evenly.
    Mapp gas is hotter than propane & thus works better for valves.
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  4. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,358
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Is the valve body threaded? Many are and if it is, sweat a copper pipe to a male adapter. Then screw the adapter into the valve body. After that, just cut a sweat.
  5. ragtop68rs

    ragtop68rs New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Grand Rapids,Mi.
    Thanks, I got it. I just wasn't getting it hot enough with the added mass on the valve.
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