Small restroom

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by k9, Jan 15, 2010.

  1. k9

    k9 New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    Phoenix
    I have a really small restroom with the toilet set at 14" rough with a 12" rough in toilet installed. With this set up I have 2" open space at the rear of the tank to the wall and 10" from the front of the bowl to the wall (Tight) to say the least.
    If I replace the toilet with a 14" rough will I gain back the 2", will this push the toilet back against the back wall?
    Or
    Do I need to go with the Toto unifit to gain back the 2"?

    Thank you
  2. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    711
    Location:
    VA
    The Toto will gain you the 2". By code, you are normally required to have 21" (or 24") of clear space in front of a toilet. I am dealing with something similar as I had a wall mounted lav only 11" or so from the front of the toilet. It would hang over your knees if you sat on the toilet. Currently, I am relocating the lav, but will have to go close to the shower as it is a small bathroom and I am limited on space.
  3. k9

    k9 New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    Phoenix
    Thanks for the reply
    The house was built in the late 80s, and Im not sure what they were thinking when they designed the restroom.

    Is the Toto unifet the only way to gain back the 2"s, (replumbing is not an option).

    Im just not clear on when you use a 10,12,14 rough in, where the differance is on the toilet. Do they make up the space differance with just the tank?
  4. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    711
    Location:
    VA
    My understanding is that most of the current 14" toilets are really a 12" model with a deeper tank (still sticks out like your current toilet). There are a couple recent threads in this section that talk about the 14" size. You should check thouse out.

    I almost have the opposite problem where my flange is under 12" with a 12" toilet on it. The tank is pinned tightly against the wall.

    edit: Check out this thread.

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34288
  5. k9

    k9 New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    Phoenix
    That link answered all my questions

    Thank you
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    The only toilet that can be used on 10, 12 or 14" rough-ins and maintain the same projection from the wall are the Toto's with the appropriate UniFit adapter. Not all Toto toilets use this adapter. All others, either leave a space behind the toilet, or change the tank thickness to accommodate the space behind. Note, packaged with the toilet is the 12" adapter...if you need a 10" or 14", you need to buy that extra and you can use the 12" as a planter if you want...would look weird, but hey....I guess you could recycle it but not sure what type of plastic it is.
  7. k9

    k9 New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    Phoenix
    Ok I'm going to go with the unifit Toto toilet.

    The floor now is bare cement and I plan to tile, Is there any recommendation on the set height of the adapter if I want to have the tile go under the toilet?

    Do I tile then screw down the adapter on to the tile?
    I want to be sure than when the toilet is set on top of the tile it fits the drain correct.
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2010
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    The adapter is considered part of the toilet, and if a regular toilet would fit, the toilet will. Toilets are designed to fit to a toilet flange that sits on TOP of the FINISHED floor (this means, ideally) the flange is sitting on top of the tile and fastened down into the slab through it. Now, many don't end up that way and still work. You might want to use a flange extender, but often a thicker (jumbo or two normal ones stacked) work. Depends somewhat on how recessed it is. Another alternative is to use a waxless adapter - these can accommodate a flange recessed a fair amount.

    You'll need a small diamond core or glass bit to drill holes in the tile to mount the Unifit adapter (4 of them). The front part attaches to the existing flange as if it were a toilet, then the toilet gets attached to the back part of the Unifit - so, that end needs to be anchored. They use 4 screws into the floor to do that. A nice side benefit to this method is it's really simple to pull the toilet to paint or whatever since you don't need to mess with a new wax ring...the seal in the toilet to the unifit can withstand numerous insertions/removeals so it's just unbolt, then set back down (well, you do have to undo the water supply connection, too!). really handy if you need the thing inbetween while remodeling and haven't finished yet but don't want it in the way while working.
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