Slip-on Coupling vs No-Hub Connection for Vent

[emcconne]

I am modifying the plumbing in one of our bathrooms during a remodel and have a question about venting. I am trying to tie new pvc into my 3" roof vent due to a reconfiguration of the toilet, however there is no room to install a regular repair coupling. There is no water in this pipe only vent as it is above the highest drain in my house (although I do seem to get condensation in the pipe but not much). I seem to have three options and would like to know which is best and would pass inspection.
1) Slip-on coupling (without the ridge in the center)
2) No-hub coupling (just thick rubber with stainless bands)
3) No-hub coupling (thin rubber with stainless sheath and bands)

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Also, does it matter if this connection is horizontal or vertical. I have a similar situation with the bathtub and my tie-in there will be on the horizontal.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I wouldn't use any coupling if the vent terminal is PVC. Once you cut out the section for installing a vent tee or santi-tee for your tie-in, the riser will be loose and easy to move. Be careful not to damage the roof flashing when you move the pipe. If it's a lead flashing you will need to unfold the overlap into the pipe and then fold it back into place when you are done.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

The neoprene sleeve type couplers are not to be used above ground as they don't provide the ridged support. Use a banded coupler.

 

[Shacko]

Just use a standard Fernco coupling and add the shear rings to it, it doesn't have the lips inside

 

[Dlarrivee]

Just use a standard Fernco coupling and add the shear rings to it, it doesn't have the lips inside

Why use a coupling at all? Like stated above you're going to need a T to tie in with anyways... Use the same material.

 

[hj]

#1. okay to use IF you are fast enough to get it into place before the cement hardens
#2. NOT okay for use anywhere inside a house, and it is NOT a "No-Hub" coupling.
#3. No-Hub is for cast iron, not plastic
#4. Use a ProFlex, or similar, transition coupling, sized for and designed, to join plastic to plastic.

 

[Ballvalve]

Since its a vent, perhaps your iinspector would allow a saddle tee. Now you are done in about 5 minutes with no torture.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CCcQ8wIwAg#

I hear the yells about illegality already.

 

[Redwood]

Since its a vent, perhaps your iinspector would allow a saddle tee. Now you are done in about 5 minutes with no torture.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CCcQ8wIwAg#

I hear the yells about illegality already.

Yep it's a not up to code hack job....

Just like it was last time you suggested it....

 

[hj]

"Since its a vent", why not tell him to drill a hole in the pipe and put "Wonder Putty" around it. THAT would be even faster. HE also would not have to spend a week's time trying to FIND a saddle tee.

 

[Ballvalve]

I posted a link for hundreds of saddles above. All irrigation pipe houses sell them. sanded, glued and clamped, I'd say its better than a piece of inner tube stuck in your pipe, and the disturbance of its integrity by trying to move it up or down. Time for the code to comply with reality.

JB weld [wonder putty] and a well placed lag bolt in a plain well tank works for me outdoors. Got many holding for several years now, under 80 psi pressure. Thats 300 dollars saved per bolt.

Since you guys hate saddles so much, how about a "clamshell" fitting - cut the pipe, put it around it, glue it or gaskets, and bolt it up. Gotta be a money maker for the mfg and surely better than rubber.

Funny how the city taps its 200PSI mains under pressure and feeds your house for 100 years with a saddle....