Sink / Wall positioning so I don't need to reroute plumbing under concrete

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J Blow

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My stub outs are in concrete and I'm ready to start thinking about plumbing and vanity placement. As it sits now, the lav drain is coming straight out of the floor 2 feet from one exterior wall. It sits 7 feet from the other exterior wall meaning it's built to frame a 7 foot bathroom using conventional plumbing methods. I'd really like to have a bigger bathroom than 7 feet do is there something I can do about rerouting the plumbing under the vanity but above ground. For example, can I 90° it to the wall on the floor (would be half buried in rigid foam and osb on the floor) to where want the new wall to be? That would give me a couple more feet. How admit doing the same thing to the other exterior wall and then bending it around the corner to where I want to build the new wall? There will be a dual sink setup and to throw in a little more, this is a wet vent from the toilet that needs to join on the ceiling a few feet away, too.

Thanks for the thoughts!
 

J Blow

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I think I figured this out...since it's my house and no one else is going to care as long as it drains, isn't unsightly from the outside, and doesn't smell bad, anything will work.
 

hj

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That is the classic Do It Yourself mantra. Anyone can do plumbing if they have enough time and fittings and do not have to get it inspected or approved.
 

J Blow

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True...well, most anyone can do it....and as along as you understand there may be some consequences along the way in the learning phase. The same can be said for most things that aren't mind blowing technical. Of course when I say "anything will work" it must fit within those parameters of functionality and a reasonable amount of visual appeal.

All that said, I'm still aiming for quality and visually appealing work.
 

J Blow

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I think I've got a good plan when it comes to plumbing location, venting, etc. so now I'm ordering parts. This is for a dual sink and it's on a 2" drain coming from the floor. Looks like 1 1/2" is pretty standard for a P trap and I assume on the actual sink drain connection...which makes me wonder where I should be connecting a reducer. Right where the drain from the floor makes the first bend seems like a reasonable place but I was trying to decide if running the 2" pipe up to the trap or even sick holds any benefit.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 

Terry

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Two lavs will require an 2" waste line and 1.5" vent.
A double fixture fitting would be 2" on the low side, and the other three outlets would be 1.5"

Vertical to horizontal requires a long turn 90
Going from horizontal to vertical, you can have a Medium.
 

J Blow

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Great! I really appreciate the information. I'll need to do a little research on what some of this means but I'll know I'm on the right track. It's hard to understand how people accomplished these tasks they aren't trained in BEFORE the internet.
 

hj

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quote; It's hard to understand how people accomplished these tasks they aren't trained in BEFORE the internet.

They screwed it up, just like they WITH the Internet. Which is why plumbers still exist. The Internet just makes correcting the screw ups more interesting.
 

Dj2

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Great! I really appreciate the information. I'll need to do a little research on what some of this means but I'll know I'm on the right track. It's hard to understand how people accomplished these tasks they aren't trained in BEFORE the internet.

This is exactly how "You can do it, we can help" big orange became so wealthy: they have been selling homeowners materials three times for the same project: first time so that homeowners can ruin them, second time after they showed homeowner how to do it and homeowners still ruined them AND third time when homeowners gave up and called the professionals to do the job.
 

J Blow

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This is exactly how "You can do it, we can help" big orange became so wealthy: they have been selling homeowners materials three times for the same project: first time so that homeowners can ruin them, second time after they showed homeowner how to do it and homeowners still ruined them AND third time when homeowners gave up and called the professionals to do the job.


I'm not quite sure what to make of this post but I am pretty sure I can do this job and do it right the first time. Without the help I've received here I may have still gotten the job done but I'm less confident it would have been to code.

If this posts refers to big orange and before the internet, I can maybe see this being somewhat true but even then, plumbing just isn't that hard if you're willing to do a little research and have enough sense to know who to, and more importantly, who not to listen to.
 

J Blow

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Two lavs will require an 2" waste line and 1.5" vent.
A double fixture fitting would be 2" on the low side, and the other three outlets would be 1.5"

Vertical to horizontal requires a long turn 90
Going from horizontal to vertical, you can have a Medium.


I just noticed that my vent pipe hanging down from the ceiling is a 2" pipe. Should I run a 2" off the double fixture to the vent or 1.5" all the way until the ceiling and then go to the 2 right there?

Does it even matter since it's just a vent?
 

Asktom

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Minimum vent size for two lavs is 1 1/2", so you can do whatever is easiest. You won't find a double fixture tee with a 2" barrel and 1 1/2" branches, so an 1 1/2" vent that bumps up at any convenient point is no doubt the way to go.
 

J Blow

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I should have probably added that this appears to be directly linked to the toilet (someone called it wet vent) - after the toilet since the toilet isn't vented any other way. I'll also be adding a shower which I believe has a dedicated 1.5" vent line (1.5" drain line that I assume was for a tub) that will be connected as well.

So, I'll have this double fixture sink on a 2" line that dumps into the toilet line (down hill from the toilet about 7 feet) with the vent coming out of the double fixture. That vent won't tie into the other 1.5" vent until the tub/shower vent both tie in at the 2" line in the ceiling - coming from perpendicularly intersecting directions at the ceiling drop down point.
 

J Blow

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Oh, forgot to ask this...for the shower drain all I need to add is the p trap and then of course the vertical riser to the drain. I have the fitting in the picture - seems like it wouldn't matter but just want to be sure...can the top piece be swiveled in any direction or does it need to be straight line with the U? It's a spacing issue. Thanks.

24934d1389927579-shower-trap-union-above-finished-ceiling-4895_large.jpg


http://www.doityourself.com/forum/a...p-union-above-finished-ceiling-4895_large.jpg
 

Terry

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You should have a solvent weld (glued) p-trap.
The swivel needs an access panel if you use one. It's just one more location that can leak.
And yes, you can swivel them.

If the toilet is wet vented through the lav(s), you need to stick with the 2"
 

J Blow

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You should have a solvent weld (glued) p-trap.
The swivel needs an access panel if you use one. It's just one more location that can leak.
And yes, you can swivel them.

If the toilet is wet vented through the lav(s), you need to stick with the 2"


Great information...Thanks! Actually my p trap is the glue variety so that picture wasn't exactly right - that was to show the pieces I was speaking of. I'll need to put a pretty good bend in the top piece to give me the space I need.

Only thing left to do is figure out how to vent a bar sink. I'm trying to tap into the washing machine drain and I can't see that it's vented anywhere. I'm probably missing something.
 
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