Simple way to slightly move overflow drain back?

[Brandon in VA]

I am working on a basement bathroom remodel and the overflow tube on the new bathtub needs to sit about 5/8" closer to the wall than where it sits for the current bathtub. Side to side it is in the correct position. I'd like to avoid going into the slab for such a small change if I can. I have seen the product that has the flexible green PVC tube that looks like it may work but if anyone has other suggestions or experience with that style of overflow assembly I would appreciate it.

 

[Reach4]

Just showing a picture:

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

If you are installing a new tub, then it should also get a new waste and overflow. Most of the time, I'm replacing the p-trap at the same time. It's rare that the old stuff works with the new anyway. And old tub drains don't last forever.

When installing a new tub drain, there are times that I will use fittings to jockey things around. The best is going with a straight forward approach if nothing is in the way, but sometimes there is a joist to miss or some other obstacle.
The flex Oatey would work for some of that too.

 

[Brandon in VA]

I will be replacing the overflow and waste, but would like to avoid replacing the p-trap because its under the slab and isn't accessible without a lot of extra effort (at least). Since the drain pipe coming out of the floor is pretty close to the correct position I'd prefer to keep as much as I can of what is in place, but I know that I'm going to be a little off where the overflow hits the tub if I use straight pipe so was looking for an alternative that will give me 1/2" or so of extra room. I think the flex tubing shown in the picture Reach4 posted would work, but I didn't find a lot of information about it when I was looking around.

 

[MKS]

Similar?
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/Watco/PDFMainFrame.html

 

[Brandon in VA]

That's the one. I need to use a different overflow assembly at the top but figured I could cut it off and weld it to my fitting. Any reason I couldn't/shouldn't use the same material to make up a gap on the drain waste piping? The tub I removed wasn't attached to the slab with adhesive or mortar and I plan to set the new tub in a mortar bed. I think that will raise the drain assembly about 1/2" which will leave me with a similar issue at that connection.

 

[MKS]

I think a couple of reasons for changing the p-trap is potential damage from drain cleaners chemical and mechanical.
If there is a wall in the other side it maybe helpful to open it.
The pros here build the drain and overflow to fit the the tub before it is set.
They then carefully measure the tub in its final resting spot and build and assemble the the rest of the drain system. Then set the tub and attach the drain and overflow.
You should try to eliminate the "I think' the drain will be here. You need to know.
I also believe if you choose not to replace the trap the watco flex will be fine. You should not need a flex to the drain just maybe the overflow.
This is a challenging job.

 

[Brandon in VA]

Yes, this "simple remodel" has become a challenging job. I am enjoying the challenge so far though. I am going to dig down further into/below the slab and get a better view of what I'm dealing with. I think the drain position and slope may actually be the more challenging part of this so am going to turn my attention to that. If I need to do more work than I was expecting there (I think I will) that may give me an opportunity to solve the overflow problem while I'm at it. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[MKS]

A couple quality hours with a hammer drill,bucket and vacuum will make it easier.

 

[Brandon in VA]

So I dug down and found my trap. Thankfully it's easily accessible so I should be able to cut and replace it without having to remove any more concrete than had already been removed. Part of the issue (if not all) with my distance between the tub overflow connection and the front wall is that the drain and trap are 2" and the size is reduced to 1 1/2" where the trap meets the overflow drain pipe, so the reducer fitting against the wall has a larger diameter than I really need. Any issues with reducing the drain before the trap to 1 1/2" and using 1 1/2" for the new assembly? A 1 1/2" trap would comply with local code. Also, code says the recess in the floor should have "sides and a bottom of corrosion-resistant, insect- and verminproof construction." The current setup in the recess is 1) drain/trap supported by aggregate, then 2) a layer of clear plastic sheeting, then 3) more aggregate on top of drain/trap. I assume that configuration complies with the current code I quoted so if I replicate it after replacing the trap/drain I should be okay?

 

[MKS]

I'd you went with a two inch trap assembly, this may be the tee to use to connect the tub drain overflow to.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-P401-241-2-x-1-1-2-x-1-1-2-PVC-DWV-Sanitary-Tee

Cement sounds like the answer to the corrosion/ vermin.

 

[Brandon in VA]

I've decided to replace the trap and am going to go with a 1 1/2" trap assembly. That works with the fitting and pipe supplied by the tub manufacturer and gives me a little more wiggle room where the overflow attaches. I shouldn't need to use any flexible PVC. One question before I cut out the current trap...behind the fitting that attaches the trap to the drain line there is what looks like some excess PVC cement from the original install on top of the pipe. Do I need to cut back behind that PVC cement gob as my starting point for the assembly, or will that dissolve and blend with the new cement when I weld the new joint?

 

[Terry]

You can scrap or blade off the excess glue on the old PVC.
Or it may be that the primer will be enough.

 

[Brandon in VA]

I assembled the all the parts from the main drain line forward (reducer, stub piece of 1 1/2"PVC, trap assembly) and ended up with the assembly now too close to the wall so the drain and overflow don't square up with the tub openings. I'm fine side to side, and height from the trap up to the slab surface and tub connections are OK, just not the distance from the wall. I'm checked my measurements of the individual components of the whole assembly multiple times but obviously things didn't turn out like I'd hoped. Question is this...when I do my measurements of the depth of the reducer and trap fittings to the stop point inside them (sorry, not sure of the technical term), am I right to assume that the pipe will go all the way in and make full contact, or do I need to allow for additional room in my measurements assuming the pipe will never go ALL the way in? For example, in the picture there is a small piece of PVC between the reducer and the trap. I can calculate in my measurements how long the exposed portion of that pipe is supposed to be, and when I measure it assembled it's longer than I expected by ~3/16". I assembled that piece before I installed everything so was able to apply good pressure when welding it together. I suspect the rest of my issue is where the reducer hits the drain line. Any suggestions or ideas?

 

[Brandon in VA]

with picture...