Silicone Bead?

[hankski]

We recently installed two new toilets after renewing flooring in a laundry/powder room and bathroom. Our plumber recommended that we not put a silicone bead at the base of the toilet where it meets the floor as it leaves a mark in the event that we make future changes. He also stated that it makes things harder to cleanly remove the toilet for servicing.

I am concerned about keeping the toilet firm place ove that wax seal and flange avoiding leaks. Both toilets appears to be sitting flat on a level floor. Any recommendations from the experts on the pros and cons would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Ian Gills]

I always avoid the use of silicone unless I need a 100% water proof seal, like in an exterior application subject to heavy rain or a fish tank. Silicone is very messy to work with and almost impossible to remove.

For your intended application an acrylic caulk, one marked for easy water clean-up, will be easier to work with and entirely adequate.

Caulk is not really intended to hold the toilet in place (the flange bolts do that) or to water-proof the wax seal (which should do that on its own if properly installed). It is merely there to stop bathwater and urine from going under the toilet and making things smell.

I avoid using any caulk at the back of the base of my toilet. If the wax seal gives up, you want to see the leak rather than hiding it behind the caulk since prolonged exposure to a leak could cause costly damage to your floor. Some professional plumbers do this, others prefer not to.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry Love]

Installing a toilet, instructions by Jamie

We caulk the bowls with Loctite PolySeamSeal Clear.
Some cities require caulk all the way around the bowl, in the Seattle area, we leave the caulk off at the back of the bowl.
Either way, plumbing code requires caulking of some sort.

It's important to prevent water from going under the bowl.
It's cleaner that way.
It also helps secure the bowl to the floor,
Less movement.
Quieter.
Cleaner.

PolySeamSeal will pull off the bowl and floor if needed.
Silicone is hard to remove.

 

[hankski]

Thanks for keeping me from making a mistake.

Sounds like I will be doing Poly Seam Seal leaving the back open. Those two flange bolts on the Toto Drake sure look too small to solidly hold the toilet and a 200 lb. customer soundly in place.

 

[Terry]

We normally use clear, when it dries, it disappears better on tile and wood floors.

 

[Ian Gills]

two flange bolts on the ... sure look too small to solidly hold the toilet and a 200 lb

Flange bolts are flange bolts and I am closer to 300 pounds.

I have never had any problems except on one, in Ghana, that was not bolted to the floor at all.

Clear caulk can sometimes come out white and take several days to cure clear.

 

[dinkledoodle]

The skirted Toto Soiree has an open back. How do you handle that?

 

[Terry]

The skirted Toto Soiree has an open back. How do you handle that?

I never caulk the back anyway.

And the water I'm worried about getting under the bowl, is mainly from boys peeing at the front of the bowl.

They never pee on the back of the bowl.
At least not from behind the toilet.

They can pee pretty good between a tank and bowl though.
That's one reason I like a one-piece better.
The Soiree is a one-piece.

TOTO Soiree pedestal lav, faucet and toilet suite

 

[dinkledoodle]

Thanks. I understand.