Shower valve piping distance

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by jmcintosh, May 20, 2014.

  1. jmcintosh

    jmcintosh New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Occupation:
    Network Engineer
    Location:
    Jxn, MS
    While planning my bath tub installation I see that my copper piping for the shower valve will rest upon the front lip of my 14 inch tall tub. Will that cause a problem with the heat from the hot water or make my valve too close for proper tiling? Should I cut it and set it back a couple if inches?

    Is there a bathtub install tutorial that you recommend?

    Thanks!
    Jon
     

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  2. ShowerDude

    ShowerDude Showers

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2014
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Jmcintosh,

    In regards to tiling there is a new post thread here on terrys site on getting your walls plumb "first". maybe read that, It is common these days with common materials that you will end up with a finished wall thickness (shims, CBU,thinset,tile) of roughly 1-1/4 inches. Take all your materials into consideration and do your math twice to decide how far out to "fur" your valve.

    You are asking good questions. Continue to plan ahead, and in a minute we will have A pro plumber here to answer your plumbing concerns.

    If a guy named Jim comes by with a long copy/paste response take it with a grain of salt and wait a bit longer for a pro to arrive.


    -Redshoe.
     
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  4. jmcintosh

    jmcintosh New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Occupation:
    Network Engineer
    Location:
    Jxn, MS
    Ok thanks Redshoe, Its coming down to the wire with a baby on the way. I got some outrageous quotes for tub installs or so I thought. They wanted $745 to install the tub and a shower valve. That's with me providing all the parts. Also, the vent stack was in the way at that time but I have rerouted it. What should I expect to pay for setting a tub generally. I know it all depends on a lot of different circumstances. I can guarantee the walls aren't plumb.
     
  5. jmcintosh

    jmcintosh New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Occupation:
    Network Engineer
    Location:
    Jxn, MS
    Oh, and I mean to say that I have the utmost respect for plumbing professionals. It's an essential necessity for modern life and preventing the spread of diseases which often are taken for granted! I just need to know if I'm being taken for a ride. :)
     
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    Somewhere in the instructions that came with the valve they'll have a diagram showing min/max on the valve. Often, the valve will have a mudguard (plastic piece) that attaches to the valve with marks on it. Those marks indicate where the finished wall must be for the trim to fit. If you read some and search, you'll see many people do not like the look of the valve when it is sticking out to the max. The only way you'll know if the valve is positioned properly in/out of the wall is by mocking up your intended wall construction and I suggest you temporarily install the trim to see how YOU like it, and then adjust as necessary to get the depth proper. Having it too far out, and you'll not be able to tighten the trim down. Too far in, and you may not be able to attach the trim at all (some have an optional 'deep wall' kit extender, but that may just push it out further than you want...so, careful measurement is called for).

    As to the hot pipe's heat damaging the tub...no it should not, but as things heat up and cool off, if it is rubbing, it could make some noises. Rubbing on a hard surface long-term is not a good idea.
     
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