Shower valve needed - Good value

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by hacksaw, Aug 9, 2012.

  1. hacksaw

    hacksaw New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    NY
    Hello all,

    I'm installing a new shower from scratch. I'm sure everyone has their opinion, but what shower valve seems to hold up the best? I'm looking for a moderately priced valve - don't mind paying a bit more if one brand is heads above the rest.

    Also, Good flow and the ability to adjust flow are concerns.

    Thx for the help - Pat
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012
  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    The Delta 1300 series is well liked by many Plumbers. The R10000 rough in valve + a chrome trim kit will run right around $100. Fancier trim can run the tab up some.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,242
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I only use the universal body with 1700 trim.
  4. hacksaw

    hacksaw New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    NY
    Thanks for the advice...I think I will go with the Delta. I see the 1700 has a flow control too. Do you think the 1700 is worth the extra cost?
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    With Delta and their R10000 rough-in valve, you have three choices of controls: pressure balanced, single handle; pressure balanced with volume control; thermostatic control. The same rough-in is used with all three; the cartridge and trim come together, the rough-in valve by itself. A bigbox store often packages them together, but a plumbing supply store will have them as separate items. This means that should you decide to change the configuration, you'd only need new trim and cartridge to change the way it operates, but the trim and cartridge (mostly in the trim) is where much of the cost is.
  6. hacksaw

    hacksaw New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    NY
    I don't see any mention of the cartridge in the trim kit? Are you sure it comes with it (going to by separately)?

    Delta T17278-SS Leland Monitor Stainless
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 16, 2014
  7. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    It's a little misleading, but from those I've bought, the cartridge comes with the trim kit. You could call Delta to confirm, but that's been my experience.
  8. hacksaw

    hacksaw New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    NY
    Hello all, I went with the delta, just getting around to installing it. The plaster guard that comes with it shows flush to finished wall. Does that mean I should have it protruding past the backerboard the width of the tile and thinset? Or flush with the backerboard?

    I can't find a picture of the instal. I planned on tiling up to the cylindrical valve body, but I guess I'm supposed to tile to the edge of the plaster guard?

    Also, when I cut the CBU I was a bit off, so I had to extend the hole, leaving a 3/8 gap. Should I close the gap with tap and thinset or silicone or just overhang the tile over the gap up to the plaster guard (if the tile is supposed to go up to and not over the guard) and not worry about it?

    Thanks again!
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    By not tiling over the plaster guard, you have access to the whole valve for servicing. The plaster guard can come off after you install things...it is there as a guide and except on thin-wall installations, provides no further benefits. The excess sized hole may or may not be an issue...basically, if you tile up to the edge of the plaster guard, all possible trims will be able to cover the hole, they aren't all the same size.

    There's a min/max line on the plaster guard. If the FINISHED wall is between those lines (and the guard is installed properly), the trim will fit. Some people prefer the handle to stick out more or less, so you should mock up the total wall thickness and get blessing on the preferred location. Getting it between the min/max only assures the trim will fit, not that you'll like the way it looks at one end or the other.

    If the gasket of the trim will completely cover the hole, it isn't a big deal - you can fill the hole or not as you see fit. Now, if this is a steam shower, it becomes a bigger issue.
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