1. Jacob Robinson

    Jacob Robinson New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Dayton, OH
    This is my fisrt post although I have been reading for reference on here for a while, Great Site!

    My question is: I am helping a friend add a bathroom in his basement and I have a couple things to ask/confirm.

    1.) I am using Delta's Multi Choice R1000-UNBX http://www.deltafaucet.com/bath/details/r10000-unbx.html#axzz1ZGMVOM00 and I was wondering in a shower only application If I should use the Tub outlet for the shower, or does the showerhead limit the flow so it does not matter what is being supplied to it?

    [​IMG]

    2.) When plugging the un-used outlet on the rough-in valve is it best to use a brass cap with teflon tape or solder in copper tube with a cap on it?

    3.) On the drop ear elbow for the shower head what should be used for rough-in until the tile shower is installed? I was thinking a piece of Black Iron Pipe with a cap, but will this cause reactivity problems with the copper if it is left in for an extended period of time (6 months or so, it is a weekend only diy job)

    4.) Is Teflon tape sufficient for sealing pipe threads on water fittings like shower heads? Or should an actual paste-like thread sealant be used?


    Thanks for your input,
    Jake
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 28, 2011
  2. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,068
    Location:
    Maine
    Wind a brass plug in there and be done with it.
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,783
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Teflon tape is fine for the shower arm and for the cap.
    We normally solder the other three sides, but you also have the threaded option.

    A pipe nipple with cap is fine until trim out.
    Last edited: May 8, 2012
  4. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    708
    Location:
    VA
    1. Either way works. Some guys on here like to install upside-down for shower-only.

    2. I used a copper tube and cap on mine, but a threaded cap will do.

    3. I used a galv. plug on my drop ear (for pressure testing and to keep stuff out). My valve has "stops", so the riser didn't have water in it outside of pressure testing.

    4. Either tape or paste is okay


    One thing to remember, if he doesn't have the trim for this valve yet, you will have cross-over between the hot and cold until the trim/cartridge is installed. This assumes that there isn't additional shutoffs for the shower (inline ballvalves, etc.). The cross-over could mean the the hot water in the rest of the house may only be warm until you finish up the job. Just something to think about.

    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 28, 2011
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,817
    Location:
    New England
    The rough-in valve comes with plugs (or at least the last one I got did) to prevent cross-over until ready to install the cartridge and trim...make sure to use them!
  6. Jacob Robinson

    Jacob Robinson New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Dayton, OH
    Crossover never crossed my mind, in this situation there is no good place for shut-offs, as I do not want enclose valves within the wall. I guess I should trade the one I got with one with water-stops, I think those models have WS in the model number. Is there any other options for me? Without being on site I know this is tough.
  7. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    708
    Location:
    VA
    The model w/ stops is one option to use. If I recall, these Delta valves don't have anything to plug it up while the cartridge is out. Just a couple screens to keep out trash while/during soldering and that gray cap in the pic, which is flat on the inside, and only used for pressure testing.

    Mine is a Delta valve just like yours, but mine is the version w/ stops. Turns out I didn't need the stops as I found that the plumber who installed this shower originally installed some valves on the supply (was up in the ceiling in an unfinished part of the basement). Oh, well...

    If he has the trim/cartridge kit, that could be installed to prevent the crossover. However, I imagine everything is torn apart now and you probably won't want to risk damaging the trim/cartridge with everything else going on.

    Exchanging the valve is probably the easiest option. I, like you, spread this work over a longer period, so that is why I got the w/ stops version. I had a bunch of reno work in addition to the bathroom and only weekends and some evenings to work on it.
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,817
    Location:
    New England
    FWIW, you don't need the trim installed to install the cartridge (but the cartridge does come with the trim since that rough-in can use any one of 3 types). The last one I installed (at my mother's) did have some plugs if I remember properly to prevent cross-over.
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,270
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Integral stops on a Delta shower faucet are COMPLETELY USELESS, once it is installed. A good service person NEVER removes the trim ring to repair the faucet so he would NEVER access them even if he knew they were there.
  10. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    708
    Location:
    VA
    True, but in this case, they could be used to prevent the crossover. That is the only reason why I went with the version with stops. I wanted to do the rough-in valve and then worry about the trim/cartridge later. This way, I could take my time to pick out the trim after I selected the tile and other finishes.

    Now, the instructions for the valve do show a plug that can be used to prevent crossover on the parts list. The number has an * next to it and says something like available as RP only... I know that my valve didn't have it, but it may be because my valve had the stops. Perhaps the valve without stops includes it. They use the same instructions for both versions and never show putting the plug in. They only mention it under the parts list.

    Perhaps Terry or hj can verify if the w/o stops version comes with the plug. It wasn't clear to me if it did or not, so I went with the w/ stops version.

    Anyway, if the w/o stops version comes with the plug, be sure to install it. If it doesn't, you could exchange for the w/ stops version or install the cartridge (if he knows the trim that he wants).
  11. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,833
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    I have that model rough-in in my shower. I have only a hand shower, no tub spout and no fixed shower head. The manual said "Do not use hand showers connected in lieu of a tub spout to a tub/shower valve" but none the less, I capped the shower port and used the tub filler port instead to the wall union. To cap the port, I sweated in a male brass plug.
  12. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,833
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    WRT to the stops and crossover, I just removed the blank and installed the valve right away and taped over it to protect it during construction. In hindsight, getting the rough-in with stops would have made sense. Shutting off the water to the whole house to work on the valve is not a concern for me.
Similar Threads: Shower Rough-In
Forum Title Date
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & When to install valve in new shower rough-in Jun 14, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Delta r10000 shower rough-in valve too deep in wall.... May 9, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Moving basement toilet and shower rough-ins Jun 5, 2013
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Securing Copper Tub/Shower Rough-In Oct 13, 2012
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Rough-In for wall mount shower panel? Nov 12, 2011

Share This Page