Shower drain relocation through joist

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johngaul

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Expanding my shower and wish to move the drain which will go through a joist. The joist are 12" I type and shown in red. I hacked off the vent pipe, yet it will remain where it is and angle to the back wall, then up. The blue line is what I was hoping will be acceptable for the drain location. Going through the joist at an angle will create a bigger hole, is this good or bad plan?
Thanks,
John
 

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Jadnashua

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Call the manufacturer of the I-joist you have, but most of them will allow a fairly significant sized hole. You can sometimes find the manufacturer specific info on their website. It should tell you the max size, quantity, and location restrictions on holes. It is more forgiving than dimmensional solid lumber.
 

johngaul

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Thanks Jim-
I will see if I can view the vendor info through the hole in the floor. Can you advise on whether the angle on the drain would be OK?
John
 

Jadnashua

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I don't think the angle is a problem as long as you can maintain the required minimum 1/4" per foot slope. You wouldn't want a 90 without a long sweep, but it looks like probably a 45 would work.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply.
When I removed the fiberglass 3x3 stall, the drain was not supported by anything, maybe this is correct for the type of shower. I will be installing a tiled shower(schluter products), don't I ned to support this on it's own before putting in the mud floor? What woudl I use?
John
 

johngaul

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Found the vedor specs on the web, thanks for the tip.
Still unsure how to support the drain pipe....
 

Jadnashua

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Well, depends on the type of drain you use. A clamping drain can be attached to the subfloor. If you aren't committed to one type of shower construction, look into the Kerdi system by www.schluter.com. After reviewing a bunch of options, I think it is one of the most flexible systems available. I made a shower with it at my mother's house last year and have been to a factory sponsered class. It is slick. Another choice is Wedi by www.wedi.de. A conventional construction works, too, and would likely be less expensive, but lacks some of the features. Keep in mind that tile and grout are not waterproof, and although they don't let much through, in a well used shower, the mudbed does get damp. If built properly, it will dry out. With the surface membrane systems, the waterproofing is over the entire shower, and therefore, there is much less to get damp so it dries out much quicker and resists mold and mildew. Check out www.johnbridge.com for help in tiling, you won't regret it.
 

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I am using a Kerdi Drain which mounts slughtly above the subfloor as a mortar base goes underneath. I am uncertain how to support the p-trap. I need to reread the instructions for setting the Kerdi Drain, yet I know it gets pushed down into a mud base, something has to provide resistance from the p-trap. It is just hanging there now...
John
 
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Jadnashua

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Once the drain is embedded in the mud, it will be solid. One thing the instructions are not that clear on, is that for the drain to stick to the mudbed, you need to mix more portland cement and maybe some lime into the portion placed immediately under it. Or, you can buy a bag of brick mortar (you won't use much, but it's cheap). You want the flange of that drain to actually stick to the mud. If your pipe flexes a little, you can glue it to the pipe first, then lift it up to put the mud under, then stick it down embedding it into the mud. Otherwise, you could probably stick a block of wood under there to give you something to press the flange on, keeping it at the desired height. Over a wood subfloor, you want the mud under the flange to be about 1 to 1-1/4" thick. Make sure the size of the hole is proper (I think 5"), or you won't have enough surface to provide the proper support.
 
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