shower drain flange replacement-help

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by arrow, Oct 25, 2006.

  1. arrow

    arrow New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Illinois
    I found tons of water leak to my crawl space. After a quick test I found that the water came through the shower flange. I found that there were a gasket (about 7-9 mm thick) to fill out the gab between the 2" pipe and the drain flange. I'm not sure what is the best that I can do. I visited HD to get an advice and bought a new drain flange which has a threaded rubber inside. HD do not carry a gasket for this case.
    My questions are

    1) Is it OK to use a gasket to fill the gab to seal? After pushing the gasket in the gab, should I cauk the side? I could not found that kind of type fo shower stall in website. I'm not sure if I can find that one. Unscrew the flange from crawl space would not be easy as well.

    2) Thie pipe is not in center exactly. It is a little bit tilted to one end. I can make it center by pushing hard. No matter what I use to seal it, I think this may make the seal not complete. I'm not sure the new flange with threaded rubber of a gasket is also good in this kind of a little bit tilted pipe.

    Thanks for your advice in advance.
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,324
    Location:
    New England
    Is this a fiberglass or some other plastic shower pan? There are various types of drains that might be able to be used. Some of them use a rubber sleeve and a press fit, there's no glued or threaded connection between the drain and the pipe.

    Can you post a picture? It would make it easier to help.
  3. plumber1

    plumber1 Plumber

    Messages:
    1,423
    Location:
    Florida
    Different rubber seals are made for copper, pvc and galv drain stubs. They are a very tight fit and require to be seated with a corking iron or a cold chisel.

    Once you get the seal started it will center the drain pipe.........
  4. arrow

    arrow New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Illinois
    here is the picture

    yes. It is not glued nor thread. There is only one ring(sleeve) around the pipe. I wonder how it works only with the sleeve. Is it possible that the installer forgot something or cauking around the sleeve worn out?

    Attached Files:

  5. Cass

    Cass Plumber

    Messages:
    5,980
    Location:
    Ohio
    If it were me I would buy a new shower drain and install everything new.
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,324
    Location:
    New England
    Nope, on many of the type you have, it is only a compression fit with the rubber around the drain pipe riser. It is a bear to get a new one in without slicing it, but it can be done. You might try to lubricate it with dishsoap to make it easier to push in there with maybe say a screwdriver. They do make special tools to this, but if you are careful, and can find the replacement, you can reinstall a new one. If you have access from below, you could put a new drain in, too.
  7. arrow

    arrow New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks. The pipe is a little bit titled to one end. Should I fix it first before I install a new one or push a gasket round the pipe? I can push the pipe hard to be in center so I can install something but it goes back to its position. I worry that it will squeez the sealing one side harder than the other causing leak.
  8. plumber1

    plumber1 Plumber

    Messages:
    1,423
    Location:
    Florida
    Try to get under and support the trap. Otherwise I would just get the rubber seal started and drive it in.
  9. arrow

    arrow New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Illinois
    I'm back. I just got a quote to replace the stall at about $300. He said the pipe has to be cut. I guess it is right since there is no way to get the big nut out unless the pipe is cut. But $300. I'll try by myself first WITH your help. My P-trap in on a wood rail(?). It is hard to re-positioned to be in center. And I have to cut. Do I have to cut right after the P and glue it?
    I'm doing web searching now. Please help me out.
    Thanks.
Similar Threads: shower drain
Forum Title Date
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Your Beach House Shower: Best way of preventing sand build up in drain Friday at 6:29 AM
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Shower drain is slow Nov 1, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Curved Shower Drains: Installation Photos Sep 28, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Replacing bad shower drain fittings with new. Sep 22, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Stacked Townhouse - changing tub drain for shower Sep 8, 2014

Share This Page