Shower arm - pipe dope question

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ultra60

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Hello,

I am replacing a shower arm. Instructions only call for use of tape. I've heard so many say tape + pipe dope. Which pipe dope is recommended? I have some Rectorseal 5. Can this be used with the TEFLON® tape? If not, could use please recommend something that is readily available?

Sorry, but I'm not sure what the technical name for pipe dope is.

Thanks for your help.
Chris
 
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Dj2

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This is not a critical area, TEFLON® tape ( 3 times around in the direction of the thread) will be just fine.

There are various thread sealants on the market, and together with teflon tape, make very good connections where you need them.

pipe-dope-dope.jpg
 
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ultra60

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Thanks.. so thread sealant/pipe dope is not needed for the fitting inside the wall?

Is pipe dope also known as TEFLON® pipe sealant?
 
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Dj2

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Thanks.. so thread sealant/pipe dope is not needed for the fitting inside the wall?

Is pipe dope also known as TEFLON® pipe sealant?

Teflon pipe sealant is a brand of pipe dope.

Tape or dope, which one is better? for most applications, they are about equal, but tape is less messy. Dope has been in use much longer than tape, from the days of the string sealant.

For gas applications, you can't use white TEFLON® tape (you can use yellow teflon tape) and most old time plumbers prefer dope.

For connections under stress and pressure, I like to use both.
 
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Jadnashua

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Unless a threaded connection has a gasket at the end (like on say a garden hose), the threads themselves will NOT create a waterproof seal. On EVERY tapered pipe thread, you need some sort of sealant. That can be pipe dope (and there are various types, some contain Teflon, some don't, it really doesn't matter!) or tape. Some use the belt and suspender method of using both, but either one, installed properly, will seal a pipe joint. Some of the pipe dopes will stay soft, some will harden (somewhat, but typically don't crumble or crack out). You only NEED one or the other, but you can use both.

If one part is not metal (say a showerhead containing plastic fittings), you need to ensure you use a pipe dope that is compatible with plastic, or it may damage the material. Some are, some aren't - read the label! Tape isn't an issue, since it's not reactive. BUt, you can wipe the excess pipe dope off on the pipe, it's much more difficult to 'hide' the tape, should you want to.

Just get a good coat all the way around on the male threads, then tighten it up when using pipe dope. An advantage of using tape is if you find it gets tight in the wrong orientation, you can redo it and add another wrap or two BUT, normally, you can continue around making things tighter to get it where you want it without damaging anything.
 

hj

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quote; TEFLON® on pipe sealant is a brand of pipe dope.

The company that MAKES TEFLON® has emphatically stated that there is NO " TEFLON®" pipe tape, and should not be advertised as such. It is generic TPFE tape. I never use tape on metal threads, only pipe dope/joint compound.
 
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ultra60

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If I decided to use both, would it be tape on the shower arm, dope on the fitting in the wall, then screw them together?

Thanks

Just saw HJ's post after I submitted this one. So it sounds like with the connection in the wall, I only need pipe dope perhaps.
 
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Jadnashua

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Don't read into this or over think it...it is not that hard...EVERY threaded tapered pipe joint needs some sealant, whether it is pipe dope or tape (or both). It's far easier to put it on the male threads (and the only place you can put the tape) than on a female fitting.
 

Asktom

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Rectorseal on the male threads and twist it in. PTFE tape would also work. PTFE & Rectorseal would work. Hope this is all moot because the job is done.
 

ultra60

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Rectorseal on the male threads and twist it in. PTFE tape would also work. PTFE & Rectorseal would work. Hope this is all moot because the job is done.

Yes.. the job is done, and thanks for all the replies. I stopped by a plumbing supply house and got some thread sealant. I installed the arm hand tight, getting about 4 turns in. Not sure if I should have cranked it one more time around. Feels pretty solid as is.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Yes.. the job is done, and thanks for all the replies. I stopped by a plumbing supply house and got some thread sealant. I installed the arm hand tight, getting about 4 turns in. Not sure if I should have cranked it one more time around. Feels pretty solid as is.

Can you remove the trim and shine a little light through the wall. If it's dripping you can most times see the drip flash in the light.

I hope your shower arm is a chrome plated brass and not chrome plated plastic. The plastic ones suck and can easily break.
 

ultra60

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Can you remove the trim and shine a little light through the wall. If it's dripping you can most times see the drip flash in the light.

I hope your shower arm is a chrome plated brass and not chrome plated plastic. The plastic ones suck and can easily break.


John - not sure if it chrome plated brass, but I'd say its not plastic for sure.. has some weight to it. Am able to look into the wall, and don't see any drips.

Thanks,
Chris
 
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