Short Cycling

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Mark Chauvin

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I have an issue that I cannot find in any of the posts for short-cycling of pumps. So, here it goes.

My pump short cycles when a tap in the house is turned on. however, if I turn on one more taps it comes on and stays on until I turn them off. If I turn off one of the multiple taps it will start short cycling again. The pressure gauge will initially drop to about 40 then bounce to 50 and shut off. Right after the pump shuts off it bounces to 60 then comes down to 50.

What I have done. I've turned the pump power off, opened the drain tap on the tank. I let run until there was nothing else coming out. I the closed off the tap and turned on the pump switch. It immediately came to life and ran for about 1-2 mins and stopped.

Here is the kicker. If I turn on any tamp in the house (just one) it short cycles. If I turn on only the tap on the side of the house (there is an inline valve and after there is the wall spigot), the pump runs fine. Except if I just crack it open just a little bit it will start to short cycle.

It seems to hold pressure. I don't hear any air leaks and I have no water leaks. So, I am at a loss based on all the materials I have read on this.

Please help. I really cant afford a well guy to come out.
 

Reach4

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Where is the pump? If not in the well, how many pipes go from the pump into the well? What do you know about the well?

How big is the pressure tank?
 

LLigetfa

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Describe the tank. Is it a bladder tank or hydro-pneumatic? How many gallons of water can you draw before the pump comes on?
Your OP seems to say that the pump turns on at 40 PSI and turns off at 50. Depending on the tank you should have 20 PSI differential, not 10. My guess is the tank is waterlogged which can be verified by the answer to my drawdown question.
 

Mark Chauvin

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Here are some photos of my setup:
 

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LLigetfa

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You have a hydro-pneumatic tank with AVC. Can you see a sweat line that would indicate how much air is in the tank?
 

Valveman

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Yeah your tank is waterlogged. Just turning off the power and opening a faucet will not drain all the excess water from the tank. It is like holding your finger over a straw full of tea, the water won’t come out the bottom until you let air in the top.

While draining the tank remove the highest fitting in the tank and let the air gurgle in while the water gurgles out of a faucet. Or better yet use a compressor to blow air in the tank while the faucet is open. This will force out the excess water much quicker.

Recharging the air volume in that kind of tank is something you will probably have to do as regular maintenance.
 

Mark Chauvin

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LLigetfa, PHEW!!! I was getting worried for a second there I thought you wanted me to "lick" the side of my tank!!!! LOL! Dont have a torch but I do have one of those long grill lighter things. But I'll try the using my tire pump to push the water out.

Thanks, LLigetfa and Valvman.
 

Mark Chauvin

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Ok. Thanks everybody. It was a waterlogged tank. But I cant get it completely empty because the ..... people that installed it came back out last august (it was a new house a year old this past July) because the pump lost its prime. They removed a valve that was on top of the pump going to the tank. It originally had the gauge between the pump and the valve. Well, they cut off the valve. So, I removed the gauge off the pump and use my little 12v tire compressor. It did move a lot of the water out, but I could hear water being drawn up the well. I ran it for about 10 mins. So, I stopped and put it all back together and it works well now.

Question, should there be a valve between the pump and tank and schrader (sp?) valce after the valve and the gauge after the valve on the tank side of the valve?
 

LLigetfa

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You picture shows an AVC on the side of the tank with a small line going to the pump. The AVC is supposed to monitor the air/water level in the tank and allow air into the pump as needed. Some AVCs have a port where a gauge or Schrader valve may be added.
 

Reach4

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Is it a bladder tank or hydro-pneumatic?
Good call. I think this is the first time I have noticed anybody post about such a tank that looked less than 40 years old.

Mark, the tanks with the diaphragm are much more common today.
 

Reach4

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I think they are the same function, but they are different. The better tanks are diaphragm and at least some of the bladder tanks have replaceable bladders.

The diaphragm is hooked to the side of the tank. The bladder I think comes in two types. In one the bladder is hooked to the bottom, and it contains water. In another type the bladder is hooked to the top and the bladder contains air.

http://waterworker.client.sprintout.com/welltanks/welltank_faq.html
http://www.flotecpump.com/residentialpage_resource_faq_tanks.aspx
http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/extrol_asme/9017099_06_14_L_EXTROL_Replacement_Bladder.pdf shows bladder that you change from the top and the bladder holds air.
 
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