Short cycling well

[Droop]

My well pump short cycle, sounds like morse code. Installed a new pump 3 months ago and had no
problems. Out of the blue it started short cycling, not sure for how long. Installed new pressure tank and pipe. This still did not solve problem. Could the pressure switch be bad on a new pump? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

The pipe between the pressure switch and the pressure tank needs to be short.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Jet pump or submersible??

 

[Droop]

Jet pump, never changed pipe configuration. put back the way i found it.

 

[Droop]

Maybe i said it wrong. I may have meant pressure limit switch that is on the pump itself.

 

[Valveman]

You probably have a check valve between the pump and pressure tank. Get rid of that pressure switch and the morse code will go away. Need a check valve on the suction line only.

 

[Droop]

no, no check valve. held switch on pump w/ screwdriver. Built up pressure.

 

[Valveman]

OK then maybe you have too much air pressure in the tank. Air pressure should be about 5 PSI less than pump start pressure.

 

[Droop]

done, no differance from old pressure tank to new one. Is there a way to check switch on pump? should i take it apart again and checck pump for blockage?

 

[Valveman]

I doubt blockage of the pressure switch is the problem. Post a picture. There must be something wrong with the installation.

 

[Droop]

 

[Droop]

Same set up as when i moved in. Pump 4 months old. Ran fine for 4 months and started short cycling out of the blue. Replaced
pressure tank. This did not fix the problem.

 

[Reach4]

If you move your pressure switch very close to the pressure tank, the problem will go away. There are manifolds called "tank tees" that can help with the water connection. So why was the tank close enough 4 months ago? I don't know. I suspect there could be some restriction or clogging in a portion of the pump assembly that serves as a resistance between the switch and pressure tank. But I don't know how those things are built internally to know what could be happening.

I would also avoid adding new galvanized pipe. It will add rust to your water. Old galvanized will probably have a coating of calcium compound accumulated with time that reduces the rust somewhat.

 

[Droop]

How do i do that and where would you put it? Should I take switch off pump and check for blockage?

 

[Pourboy]

Could it be the foot valve? How did the drop pipe look?
running for 4 months, switch looks new cant see points but don't see any rust or even cobweb
bronze tank tees make me lil randy tho, also possible upstream leak? looks as though you could isolate and test

 

[Reach4]

A restriction to just the pressure switch would not cause the problem. Somebody with jet pump knowledge may offer some idea. I have wondered how they get by with a pressure switch on the pump so often. Maybe there is some other cure they will be able to identify. They will agree that moving the pressure switch would at least work-around the problem.

I have not worked with a jet pump. But the idea is that the wires between the pressure switch and the pump motor would be extended to the new location. The location would be at or near the tee at the pressure switch.

 

[Valveman]

It looks like a shallow well set up with only one pipe coming from the pump to the well. If that is the case that screw on top of the discharge elbow is a backpressure valve that should be loosened all the way. Backpressure from that valve could cause the pump case and pressure switch to see more pressure than the pressure tank. If that doesn't work you may need to move the pressure switch close to the inlet of the tank.

If it is cycling while no water is being used, the footvalve is probably bad.

 

[Droop]

Thank you for all the help. Turns out it was a plugged pressure regulator. Also bumped up pressure. This is
a great site.