Ok, I'm a little confused on a couple of things. First, what is your proof that you have a short circuit? You tested resistance(?) between one hot wire and a neutral wire, got 0, and your meter buzzed, so that's a short circuit? If I read it wrong, please correct me. And you can't have a dead short with one wire.
You say you have a short but the breaker didn't trip. If you had a short on the circuit but the breaker didn't trip, you would have burned something up - a wire, a terminal, a piece of plugged-in-equipment, a receptacle. Something would have gone bad, because when there is a direct short, the amperage will continually increase towards infinity until something fails. And this happens very quickly (think fractions of a second). This is the purpose of the breaker: to open the circuit before everything burns up, and if a component of the circuit did burn up, it will create an open. If you're breaker hasn't tripped, there is no short. Because of this I don't think you had/have a dead short. When your meter buzzes when you're reading resistance, that means there is voltage, not that there's a short. No resistance between hot and neutral is also NOT an indicator of a short circuit. Also, just because a wire is white does NOT mean it is a neutral.
I'm not really sure why you're testing for resistance anyway. Do you have a voltage tester or a multimeter? If you feel comfortable with this, open the main panel and check to see if you have voltage coming from the circuit breaker. Test from the breaker (the screw that clamps down on the wire coming out of it) to the ground/neutral buss. See if you read a voltage. Turn the breaker off and take another reading. Then turn it back on and test it again. If you have voltage coming out of this breaker, you now have to inspect the circuit (if you don't read a voltage, change the breaker). Start opening affected boxes, starting with constantly hot (not switch-controlled) receptacles first. When you test for voltage in these boxes, test from the hot wire to the ground wire. If you have voltage, then test from hot to neutral. If you have voltage, move to the next box. If you have voltage from hot to ground, but not from hot to neutral, you've lost a neutral somewhere. When you come to switch boxes, you need to identify the cable that brings power into the box, which will be difficult if no power is coming in. If you have voltage at the breaker, but not coming into a switch box/junction box/receptacle box, you have an open on the hot somewhere. You'll need to check all your connections. If you can find the wire bringing power into the switch box, trace its path in the box, see what switches it feeds (if there are more than one), and if it also leaves the box before it goes to the switch(es). On the switches, test from the terminal where the power comes in to the switch to the terminal where the power goes to the light. For single pole switches: if the switch is on you should get 0 volts; if the switch is off you should get 120v. Any other reading than that and you have a bad switch (or you're testing improperly).
Of course there are exceptions: 3-way and 4-way switches, and switched loops. These are the reasons that white wires can be hot wires. If everything else above fails to find the problem - or if you know for sure a 3-way/four-way switch or a switched loop is involved - post so, and someone will tell you about those circuits.
And stop taking resistance readings and start testing for voltage