Hcw3
Member
I have a couple of connections seeping, on the DHW tank on a fairly new boiler system.
The leaking connections are at the tank, where the boiler connects in and out (see attached photo).
Back in the "old days", when I knew everything , I was told it was standard practice to install DHW tanks using unions, especially in rural residences, for ease in removal and/or replacement, and for "annual" cleanout (which of course I've done 'annually', only once).
I'm planning on repairing these leaky connections, but would like to install some "quick disconnects" mainly to make it easier to tighten the fittings in case of further leaking. I was told by the HVAC guy who installed the system, that leaks in the closed loop were common because of the temperature range (sounds weak to me!).
For simplicity I'd like to use a couple of 1" MPT x 3/4" Sharkbite reducer/adapters, if I could depend on them to last. Or is the "right way" to use a couple of unions (with nipples, and reducer couplings etc) because they would be less likely to ever be a problem?
Another reason to avoid the unions is that there isn't much room between the tank fittings and the 3/4" copper els.
Is there any reason not to use Sharkbites hoping that they'd last for 'decades', or is that a half-a** way to do it?
Thanks.
--
Harry
The leaking connections are at the tank, where the boiler connects in and out (see attached photo).
Back in the "old days", when I knew everything , I was told it was standard practice to install DHW tanks using unions, especially in rural residences, for ease in removal and/or replacement, and for "annual" cleanout (which of course I've done 'annually', only once).
I'm planning on repairing these leaky connections, but would like to install some "quick disconnects" mainly to make it easier to tighten the fittings in case of further leaking. I was told by the HVAC guy who installed the system, that leaks in the closed loop were common because of the temperature range (sounds weak to me!).
For simplicity I'd like to use a couple of 1" MPT x 3/4" Sharkbite reducer/adapters, if I could depend on them to last. Or is the "right way" to use a couple of unions (with nipples, and reducer couplings etc) because they would be less likely to ever be a problem?
Another reason to avoid the unions is that there isn't much room between the tank fittings and the 3/4" copper els.
Is there any reason not to use Sharkbites hoping that they'd last for 'decades', or is that a half-a** way to do it?
Thanks.
--
Harry