Shallow Well to Feed My Cistern

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Buczar

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lol, you are of course likely correct.

There is no valve on the 'dump end' in the tank . . . when the pump runs, it will flow (in either direction). I figured a check-valve may be required to keep the water in that 40ft of pipe from coming back on the pump. But that is an assumption by me...maybe it doesn't matter and I should remove?

'Well valve' is just a ball valve to 'close' the well if the pump is removed. I really don't think I need it.
 

Valveman

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If you are using this pump for "de-watering" a sump and filling a cistern, you don't need a pressure tank and pressure switch. Just a ball valve on the discharge line so you can adjust the pumps output to match the inflow of the sump. Then a float switch in the cistern would turn the pump on and off as needed. A foot valve or check valve is needed so you don't loose prime.

I also don't like ball valves or unions on the suction line. Both are made to hold pressure but may cause a suction leak under vacuum that lets air in and you will loose prime.
 

Reach4

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I figured a check-valve may be required to keep the water in that 40ft of pipe from coming back on the pump. But that is an assumption by me...maybe it doesn't matter and I should remove?
Your foot valve, or whatever is down the hole, must have a check valve. That keeps the water from flowing back into the well.
 

Buczar

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I like removing joints for sure! Here is my revised, simplified diagram.
Well Pump Diagram_2.png


Hopefully . . . my next post will be regarding success! Thanks for the time and comments.

Jim
 

Buczar

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Success! Of a sort. I'm moly sustainably pulling about 2 - 2.5 gpm.

Questions: my pump Cmte with a pressure switch: does this effect ability to draw and should I remove it? (And if so, how?)

I assume I need to do a lot more work developing the well...what are good approaches? I've seen people hook water hose up it top and force water in. Seen a plunger made .... Air hose to the bottom of well...

Suggestions?

Thanks!
 

Buczar

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Lol, all I can say is 'duh' :confused:. Thank you all for your patience with me. . .

May I ask if anyone might provide insight on developing the well? Looks like I very-much skipped that step . . . planning to get that going tonight or tomorrow if I can.

Jim
 

Buczar

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Disaster strikes. I broke a pipe. Right at the top of the well, maybe 3 inches below ground, but 24 inches from the top of my pit. Now I need to learn what to do with this .... Are there tools that can grab the pipe and hold strong enough to pull it up the 24 inches or so?
 

Valveman

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Fishing tools are usually made special for each application. If you can reach the broken pipe, even with a stick, you can just loop a nylon lifting strap around it to pull on.
 

Buczar

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I think I can get to the pipe. But to lift a pipe I'm seeing set-ups where individuals are using multiple 2-ton floor jacks . . . I don't think mine will be that bad . . . but how much stress can a nylon rope take? The pipe is attached ultimately to my drive head 15-feet below.

Also, what is the approach if I can only get to the inside of the pipe? (if a lifting strap is not possible due to unable to loop around outside or if that approach fails to be able to budge the well point?

Thanks!
 

Valveman

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Nylon rope won't hold much, but the lifting straps can. If you don't have room to loop the strap over, there is probably not enough room for an overshot either. And if you go inside PVC pipe with a spear, it will probably tear out. You may have to just pull the drive point out as well.
 

Buczar

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I'd be ok if I ended up pulling the point. The pipe (from the drive to the break) is galvenized if that makes a difference.
 

Buczar

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Hi again,

So I've worked the past couple weeks to see if I could reach the pipe by hand and had success. I shored around the pipe with a 5 gallon bucket with bottom cut out. As suspected, I needed to dig down about 5" but I have 2-3 inches of pipe exposed. It is 20" under water and about 28" from top of the pit give or take. There is actually about 1" of thread left and I can get something started . . . but just that and any side pressure pulls it off.

So: Does this change the equation any? It seems I can definitely get something on the outside which I'm betting is a "plus". Valveman: you mention a lifting strap . . . but I can't seem to figure out what that is by googling it . . . can you send a picture or link by chance?

Is it possible to re-thread a pipe at this depth under water? What tool?

Thanks!

Jim
 

Buczar

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Well, I went with a fernco coupling as opposed to trying to back it out. I can always get back down to it later if I need to.

I'm making just about 5gpm. Couldn't of done this w/o the help here. Very, very, much appreciated. Thanks!
 
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