Securing a flange extension

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by saraujo, Sep 28, 2009.

  1. saraujo

    saraujo New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    I am tiling the floor in my bathroom and will be re-installing the toilet. I am in a top floor condominium so I don't have access to the plumbing below. The floor is a weird combination of 1" of concrete over wooden subfloor for sound insulation so I can't readily break through it from the top. Also, there isn't much straight pipe to mount a new flange to if I could get to it anyway, otherwise I would have done that.

    Before I tiled I looked at some of the waxless mounts that also funstion as extenders but my first indication that it didn't seal quite right might be my downstairs neighbor knocking on my door. I'd like to use a traditional wax ring I'm familiar with and a flange extender. I've installed the tile and and an Oatey 1/2" flange extender brings the flange to a nice height about 1/8" above the finished floor.

    I have a problem in that the mounting holes on the extender and the mounting holes on the flange are just off enough not to line up with each other but close enough that if I try to use the extender mounting holes I hit the heads of the original screws. If I remove the original screws the new holes would be close enough to the old holes that I don't think they'd be secure.

    I'll still be using the Johnny bolt mounts on the original flange, I just need the extension mounted securely so it won't slide. I'm thinking of leaving the original flange screws in and then drilling new holes through the extender and original flange offset just a little. The original screws will hold the original flange to the subfloor, the new screws will hold the extender in place and go through the original flange into the subfloor.

    Does this sound ok? Is there a better way to do this other than installing a whole new flange or waxless mounts/extenders?

    Thanks,

    Scott
  2. saraujo

    saraujo New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Portland, OR
  3. saraujo

    saraujo New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    So, answering my own question again...

    I was able to pick up the Sioux Chief ring at a local hardware store. It's just a tad shorter but much more sturdy. It's made of rigid PVC, the Oatey 1/2" ring was a more flexible plastic. It also has lots of mounting holes so I can find some that allow me to leave the original screws in place.

    Scott
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,032
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    extender

    Make sure you have a good seal between the flange and the exender. Personally, I have never used an extender. My preference has always been to remove the old flange and install a new one at the proper height.
  5. Runs with bison

    Runs with bison Member

    Messages:
    897
    Location:
    Midwest
    I had the same observations. I couldn't make the original screws line up so I drilled four new holes in the old flange, but the Sioux Chief ring hole alignment worked better with the old flange. I started with the Oatey but when I saw the Sioux Chief I realized it would be a better fit for my application.
  6. saraujo

    saraujo New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Yeah, I also feel like the Sioux Chief is less likely to warp or bend later and cause a leak after installation. It's sturdy enough that I thought about using the Johnny bolt mounts on the Sioux Chief but I think I'll still use mounts on the original flange, just so the bolts hold the whole mess together rather than pulling one flange away from the other.

    Scott
  7. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,384
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Seal the ring and flange with silicone.
  8. saraujo

    saraujo New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Yes, of course. Another bonus of the Sioux Chief is a better groove for silicone and it mates better with the edge of the existing flange so it should seal more easily.

    Scott
  9. Runs with bison

    Runs with bison Member

    Messages:
    897
    Location:
    Midwest
    Yep, that's what I did (as per the instructions on the ring) although when I was looking for the proper silicone sealant/adhesive a self proclaimed "plumber" working in one of the big box stores claimed he never did that with flange extensions. As you can tell, I didn't find his argument very convincing. :D
  10. Driver

    Driver New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Sacramento
    Saraugo: I'm having a same problem as your project and wonder if you can tell me a thing or two. I'm raise my floor (tile) to approx 1" above the esisting flange(cast iron). The CI have no holes other than the two johnnybolts on two side. I brought this PlumbestC85-000 ring(blue) see attachment pic.
    Iplanning as shown to attach the johnny bolts to the existing CI and attach two others johnny bolts thru two holes of the blue ring only. The 4 ears outside othe blue ring will attach the ring to the subfloor.
    My plan is to attach stack ree of the SiuoxS86-R extender ring that you uses on my blue ring. I will put a nut on the last extended ring and wax ring over that. Think this will work?

    Silcone: What did you use? brand type
    I plan to coat the 4"hole of the three decks with silcone so to prevent and creeping of water between the decking. What do you think?


    you can notice the two johnny bolts on top and bottom that for the spacers to attach to.













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