Sanitary Tee on its back...

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by zxed, Jan 26, 2009.

  1. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    I installed a sanitary tee on its back.... why? because the pieces i was cutting out and replacing (had to move the drain) were installed the same way..

    it is a shower drain., 2"., you see a 3" drain further back for the toilet.

    water drains from right to left., the vertical part of the san tee is for venting...

    someone suggested that using the san tee on its back is illegal... but there is no way i can fit a wye in there... thoughts?

    Attached Files:

  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,943
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    There is always a way to do it right.

    Sometimes you just look at it until you figure out the way.
  3. Cass

    Cass Plumber

    Messages:
    5,980
    Location:
    Ohio
    If that is a vent it is flat vented and that is a no no...

    If it is not a vent then the T should not be there...
  4. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    the top is for vent., so yes it is flat vented for about 2' and then goes into a vertical vent...

    any suggestions as to what can be done?

    the main vent that goes up into the attic is on the right side of the shower drain... the drains exit downwards on the left side of the room...

    prior to the bathremodel... which included breaking the wall between the closet and bath... the shower(tub) and toilet drain were to the right side of the vertical vents... there isnt enough room to move things around and i cant cut the floor joists :(
  5. TedL

    TedL New Member

    Messages:
    604
    Location:
    NY Capital District
    Rework the shower drain line so that it connects at the point where your vent transitions from horizontal to vertical. In other words, move the connection point the 2 ft. to the right that you mention. There, you'll be able to use a Tee, and be rid of the flat vent. I had to do basically the same thing cleaning up the inspected work of a plumber used by the previous owner of my house.
  6. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    Maybe more pics are needed....

    Can't move it to right ;)

    I'll post later today
  7. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    will have to take better pics tomorrow., ill be back :)
  8. looks a little late

    it looks like it is a lttle late to change anything...

    without cutting out the whole thing and starting over.

    Technically it is not right but will probably work like
    its predecessor did.....
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,537
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    tee

    It would have been easy before you put everything together so tightly. The Y on its back with a street 1/8 bend turned horizontal would have been easier to use. But there may be a more pressing problem if that fitting just visible to the right of the tee is also rising before it gets to the trap. IF so then it is creating a 3/4 "S" trap and that is more illegal, and a bigger problem, than the san tee on its back.
  10. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    HJ is right. I didn't even notice that. Move your wye and 1/8 bend on the 3" down closer to the shower drain and rotate it up. Put your vent tee in and run your P trap directly to it. Then you just have to figure out the vent connection to the old vent line.
  11. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    well., maybe this is a better question., itll be a bit hard to explain

    does a vent have to be after the p-trap?

    can i have (from right to left)., vent., 90 deg elbow., tee or wye., conncted to p-trap., then continues ....

    here is a sketch of whats been done., there are approx 5"-9" between the borrom of the floor joist and the ceiling (below)

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2009
  12. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    some more pics

    Attached Files:

  13. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    your are all over the place :) you posted on the JB forum as well :)
  14. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    i see what you are saying about an s trap being created., but... it isnt as S... for ex., in the attached image., it goes straight down..

    in mine., the P trap is connected to a 1/8 bend down., then a straight., then a 1/8 to correct the prior down and tilt it towards the waste... which then connects to the tee....

    do i need to post better pics?

    Attached Files:

  15. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,537
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    trap

    That is why I called it a 3/4 "S" trap because it goes at a 45 instead of down, but it is still an "S" trap, and it is still illegal and a bad idea even if it were not. Your top drawing is the correct and best way, BUT the trap has to go directly to the vent without turning down. Once it passes the vent you can turn it anyway you want to.
  16. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    thanks HJ

    hmm., in order to remove both the 3/4 s trap and the flat vent., what i could do., is., have the ptrap go from left to right (away from the waste wye), towards the vent, have it connect to the vent with a wye, then use a 180 deg elbow? ( is its called a U?.,) .. so that i can go back towards the wye that you see in the picture.,.,

    would a p-trap., into a straight + wye (vent) + straight + 180 deg elbow (turning around AND down) + straight., into wye in pic ? work?!>
  17. GabeS

    GabeS Remodel Contractor

    Messages:
    294
    Location:
    Brooklyn NY
    I'm not a plumbing pro, but you'd probably want to avoid using 180 degree turns. You're making it too difficult for the waste to flow properly.

    It may almost seem that reframing may need to be done, or notching and then reinforcing.
  18. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    How about a 90 1 ft straight and then another 90... Giving the 180 a lil stretch
  19. zxed

    zxed New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    California
    i have been wondering why i created the 3/4 s trap in the first place.....

    i was up there and noticed the old 1.5" p-trap that had been removed... turns out., that one was als a 3/4 s-trap., which is probably what i was replicating.,
  20. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,537
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    ddrain

    Your idea of a "U" bend is bad, but we would have to be there so we could see the entire situation to determine the best option. Your pictures do not give us enough information about the area to make a decision.
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