CEFIONTECT or no for high mineral esp iron content water

[CAW]

I live in central Florida am on a well and septic. Way back in 89 when we purchased our house the water system had a green sand filter w no softener. We now have a softening system and use iron out salt. Our water still has a very high mineral count. All of our 3 bathroom bowls are water line etched and I have never been able to get it out. We are in the planning stages of gutting and re-modeling one of the guest baths. Is there a toilet that is a better fit for our water situation? Space is an issue so I would like to stay under 28" back to front as this is a 5x8 bathroom. Any input is appreciated.

ChrisAnn

 

[Reach4]

If you want to take out the water line on the old toilets, pumice stone works nicely.

Clean the toilet with bleach first, mainly to make a sanitary working condition.

Measure your rough-ins carefully to help in your planning. Measure from the middle of the bolts to the wall (not the baseboard).

Also consider a backwashing iron filter at the front end of your system if you have more than 2 PPM of iron.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

If your toilets are actually etched, you may need a pH neutralizer. Acidic water will, given enough time, etch any glazed surface, CEFIONTECT included. With CEFIONTECT (and any of the high-tech glazes offered by many of the companies) will lose its benefits if you use anything abrasive...when cleaning, you must use only non-abrasive materials. If you do use any abrasive materials, you will microscopically roughen the surface, and it will lose the slick, debris releasing smoothness. Stuff will stick to any of these special glazes, but it's much harder to occur, and much easier to clean for the most part. But, etching it, all bets are off.

What is the pH of your water?

 

[Gary Swart]

Sanigloss is great, but it isn't a magic bullet. You should first look into treating your water to minimize the problem. Once that is accomplished, then a CEFIONTECT would be a good choice.

 

[Wallijonn]

Has anyone ever applied a wax to the bowl innards? I have a friend who waxes her kitchen and bathroom sinks, bath tub and shower walls and shower glass doors. I can't remember the wax she used, though; maybe Turtle Wax? (maybe Turtle Wax’s Express Shine?); I'd probably try Jubilee Kitchen Wax. I'm just wondering if that wouldn't prevent staining marks. I figure kitchen sinks would need a food grade wax, like bees wax.

I'll probably try some Jubilee Kitchen Wax on my old Briggs toilets before I throw them out; heaven knows I wouldn't want to try them on a Toto only to find out that it does nasty things to it and the drain pipes (that's where I figure it may be a problem; maybe not?)

 

[Jadnashua]

It won't hurt the surface...might help. You might try one of the newer nanotechnology waxes.

 

[Wallijonn]

Thanks, Jad, for the suggestion. I picked up a bottle of nano-scale barrier coating "Invisible Shield Surface Protectant" by Unelko Corporation at Ace Hardware. It is supposed to fight calcium and rust buildup, grime, dirt, soap scum, lime scale and hard water stains; works on porcelain, ceramics, glass, fiberglass, Formica, marble; doesn't build up, won't crack, peel or discolour. That should be what I'm looking for.

 

[Jadnashua]

Let us know how it works out for you, but not having some experience with 'before', it will only represent the 'after'...