roughing in a clawfoot tub

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by frank_shic, May 27, 2011.

  1. frank_shic

    frank_shic New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    walnut creek, CA
    hi guys! i have recently purchased a randolph morris 62" slipper clawfoot tub and am in the process of roughing in the drain and supply lines which has been going pretty smoothly (albeit slow as molasses lol) but i've run into one slight problem - there are absolutely no specifications on the website and the staff at vintagetub.com have no further information on the one piece of information i want: what the offset distance is from the centerline of the supply lines to the drain is? i was wondering if the pro's have some trick to figure out the distances when they can't get any of the specs. i was thinking about cutting the supply lines to the height of my carpeting which is where the tub is sitting currently on a drop cloth and using the imprint it leaves for the rough-in dimensions. anyone know of a better method? i just can't believe that such an expensive tub would come with such minimal documentation!
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,012
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Since a clawfoot tub can set almost anywhere, and is not confined to an alcove, you will most likely have to measure on site, and decide how far out from the wall you want to be.

    The tub drain is above the floor, meaning that the p-trap will be below the floor, and the slip joint nut and washer will be above the flooring, but not by much.
  3. bulldog plumbing

    bulldog plumbing New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    batavia il
    I had the same issue with my tub when i redid the tile, i finally used the old double offset supplies as a measure, and when from there. Problem was, the new supplies offset a different amount. So my advise is to do exactly what you are thinking, mock it up and measure it with the new parts. I would try to raise the tub so that you wouldn't have to cut those supplies until you are doing the final install. they are to expensive to buy twice.
  4. frank_shic

    frank_shic New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    walnut creek, CA
    ok, i used the paper to get the information i needed. it looks like it's 1 1/2" from centerline to centerline although i hope i'm not interpreting the ruler the way i'd prefer to see it lol. wait! terry, are you saying that there's a way to connect the drain without going through the first floor ceiling? my wife will seriously appreciate that although i'd have to re-do the drain which isn't that bad considering what a pain re-texturing a ceiling is! i'll take some pics as i fumble along through the world of plumbing... btw anyone know how to connect pex to the supply lines? i'm sorry to annoy with all these nubby questions but the information that was included is so subpar it makes me wonder how professional plumbers do this efficiently apart from experience!
  5. frank_shic

    frank_shic New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    walnut creek, CA
    figured out the pex business... i actually have a leftover elbow and 1/2" MPT female adapter that'll work just fine for connecting the supply lines. i'm so overjoyed i can do all the connections above the flooring. i'll post a picture when it's all hooked up and leak-free... probably take a month or two given that i still need to tile the floor! thanks guys!!!
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,650
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I install a female adapter at, or below the floor, because most leg tub faucets come with chrome 1/2" risers. As to where they are located it depends on how they will be supported. Some have a "3 opening yoke" that slips over the overflow pipe, some such as Kohler have an adjustable "two hole yoke" that screws to the overflow head, some have a support that screws to the wall, finally it may not have any support and you have to create your own. For the last, it helps to have the adapter a few inches below the floor to give it some rigidity.
  7. frank_shic

    frank_shic New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    walnut creek, CA
    will this work?

    Attached Files:

  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,650
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    MAYBE. As I stated previously, it depends on what KIND of support device the faucet has. If it anchors to the tub overflow, you will have to use IT to space the drain and water lines. We cannot tell for sure because of the perspective of the picture, but the water lines MUST be equally spaced from the drain line, and the dimension is usually 4" from the center on either side. The bracket, if you have one, will determine how far back from the drain lines the water pipes have to be.
  9. frank_shic

    frank_shic New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    walnut creek, CA
    gotcha, HJ! the bathtub faucet does indeed mount to the tub. i should've posted this pic:

    Attached Files:

    • tub.jpg
      tub.jpg
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  10. tubenvious

    tubenvious New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    West Virginia
    Randolph Morris

    We are also in the market for a clawfoot tub. How has your randolph morris tub been? Any issues, concerns, dissappointments with the tub or plumbing from Vintage?
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