Rough In

[WJcandee]

No no no. The flange is where it's supposed to be. The Korky should be fine. I am a little concerned about you just sticking a flange on top of what was obviously a lead pipe. That's what the so-called malleable material was. The toilet doesn't sit on the flange. The toilet sits on the floor. If it's wobbling, shim it from the rear. And do that when it has nothing between the flange and the toilet.

 

[urville]

After everything else is right, you will apply acrylic caulk, to dress things up and keep water from going under the toilet. Many only caulk the front 90% to allow a leak from the toilet flange to be noticed. I use masking tape because I am not very practiced with the caulk use. Search for Polyseamseal on this forum for discussion of caulking toilet bases.

Yes! The shims were white plastic sold in the toilet parts area, they have a rough side so they can be stacked, I only needed the very edge, it really want much in the way of movement. Heck I think it moved less than the shims were thick. I have not polyseamsealed yet, as i was giving it a day or two to leak, hah

No no no. The flange is where it's supposed to be. The Korky should be fine. I am a little concerned about you just sticking a flange on top of what was obviously a lead pipe. That's what the so-called malleable material was. The toilet doesn't sit on the flange. The toilet sits on the floor. If it's wobbling, shim it from the rear. And do that when it has nothing between the flange and the toilet.

Well, I just did better what was already done. My situation mimics this one:

That lip on the lead sits on the floor, the flange twist seals into it. the flange is screwed to the floor, the toilet sits on top of it. That flange is 1/2 inch thick and sits right against the floor. I could find no alternative to the situation online, short of running all new PVC. Which, maybe down the line if I have to.

You mean shim, pull the toilet, put the seal down and then reapply the shims?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[urville]

To clarify it sits flush on the floor now like this:

 

[Reach4]

The toilet doesn't sit on the flange.

That is the way it should be, and as it turns out, is. Good. Do you know how far the top of a flange could rise above the floor and still be confident that the toilet will not sit on the flange?

If it's wobbling, shim it from the rear. And do that when it has nothing between the flange and the toilet.

I think ideally the toilet rim should be level. If the toilet only touches the floor at one point when level, so be it. If that point is in the front, and it may tend toward that by design, shim the rear or the accessible sides near the rear. When I did shimming, I did not stop when it did not wobble. I did not stop once it was level; I inserted some extra shims. Intentional overkill. Shimming was easier for me since I was using a Unifit. That way I did not have to worry that inserting shims would disunite the wax.

It sounds to me that Urville has done well in getting a nicely sealed flange, investigating the situation, and determining that the toilet was not sitting on the flange when done.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, that type of flange is designed to fit into ONLY rigid pipe, i.e.: cast iron, pvc, or abs (well, maybe copper, but not too many places use that because of the costs). It might seal okay in soft lead if you're lucky.

 

[Reach4]

FWIW, that type of flange is designed to fit into ONLY rigid pipe, i.e.: cast iron, pvc, or abs (well, maybe copper, but not too many places use that because of the costs). It might seal okay in soft lead if you're lucky.

http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/defa...inage/closet-flanges---brochure.pdf?sfvrsn=12 says

The Push Tite works well with various piping materials – ABS, PVC, cast iron, and even some copper and lead pipes​

 

[urville]

FWIW, that type of flange is designed to fit into ONLY rigid pipe, i.e.: cast iron, pvc, or abs (well, maybe copper, but not too many places use that because of the costs). It might seal okay in soft lead if you're lucky.

once i had it twisted in, it will not move and i put considerable force on it.

 

[Wallijonn]

My house is very old. 1928 build date. My spouse needs an ADA bowl height.

Why not see what HD is selling in the way of Comfort Height, Elongated, Gravity Fed, Siphonic Jet? The AS Cadet 3 at $188 may be a possibility. The problem is that many toilets sold at HD are seconds and thirds. See if a local plumbing supply house can get close to that price since they typically only sell "firsts".

http://www.homedepot.com/p/American...ated-Toilet-in-White-3378-128ST-020/202964035