rough in problem?

[Skatergreg]

I just completed my basement bathroom...one year later all that is left is toilet install My rough in is 11 1/2". I forgot to account for drywall! Oops a do it yourselfer mistake.... I have bought a toto carusoe and tried installing it but the tank bumped the wall!!!! Any suggestions ? Should I buy a different toilet that has more leeway ? And what may that be ??? Help?? This is my first time posting but I have enjoyed all the info for the past year and a half.............Skatergreg

 

[Gary Swart]

I know a Dartmouth will fit, and I think a Drake will also. There may well be other Totos that are rated as a 12" but that will fit in less space.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Skatergreg]

how to determine what will work

How does one figure out which one will work ? I guess I can return my carusoe and get the drake....it looks and sounds like a similar one as the carusue ??? Hope the price is similar !?

 

[Redwood]

The Carusoe should fit with 1/4" to spare between the tank and the wall.
The spec sheet shows 3/4" gap between the tank and the wall with a 12" rough. You'll be fine!

Toto Carusoe Spec Sheet

 

[Jadnashua]

If you don't have the tank bolts tight, the tank can sit at an angle. You don't want to have them so tight you are putting porcelain to porcelain tension on the intersection, but if you get it to within say a piece of paper gap, see if that makes any difference. The manufacturer's spec sheet will show the nominal gap behind the toilet when installed at a 12" rough-in. While there are differences in sample to sample, Toto is possibly the most consistent of them all.

 

[hj]

measurement

Now you know why plumbers seldom put the opening at exactly 12", because we do not trust the carpenters and wall finishers to install the wall exactly where we were told it would be.

 

[Skatergreg]

Thanks for all your help everyone ! If I had of known I could have made my rough in greater than 12, or in my case, 11 1/2. Nothing in my research said if you had room to do that !!! oh well..........When I did "try" and install my toto I set the bowl and then put the tank on top and it was touching the wall so instead of tightening the bolts to see how that would change how it sat when completely tight I panicked and took everything apart and scraped off the wax seal and started looking for answers !!!!! So after I have calmed down recieved all you guys advice, this week I will try again to install it, and I will tighten the tank to bowl and hopefully if everything goes ok I should have 1/4" clearance or maybe a bit less, from tank to back wall. But I believe I can just brush against the wall and still be ok ???!!! Anyway I will post again to tell you if I achieved success or ask to suggest a toilet that will work with a less than 11 1/2" rough-in !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Skatergreg]

I finally installed my toilet well 3/4 done.........I did have room once I tightened down the tank to bowl actually almost a half inch !!!! Worry for nothing I guess!!Oops...I have to get 16" water connection the 12 is long enough but just kinda kinks weird so I will just loop the 16 " one. My final question/concern is with shimming the toilet. Because my flange set a bit above my finished tile floor I have about a 1/4 inch gap around bottom of toilet. I have composite shims for doors....will they be fine and do I just stuff them under the front and back and trim them even with the bowl ?? This is what I have done except for the trimming part..........Also not sure how much more to tighten down the bowl to flange ??? Any further insight and suggestions will be appreciated!!!! Thanks

 

[Gary Swart]

It's unfortunate you didn't find this forum before improperly installing the flange. I suppose you now know why a flange is supposed to be set on top of the finished floor. At this point, shimming is about the only option you have. From your description it sounds like the floor is level so the toilet is 1/4" above the floor all the way around, but if that is not the case, then shim the toilet to level. You want to put shims in several locations around the entire toilet so that the weight of the toilet and occupant is not on the flange alone. You must keep the toilet from having any rocking movement whatsoever or the wax ring seal will break. Trim the shims even with the bowl then caulk around the toilet base. The flange bolts should not be tightened more than just snug. Their purpose is to simply hold toilet from rocking. Too tight and you run the risk of pulling them out of the flange, breaking them, or breaking the toilet. I think shimming under the flange would be a good idea too since it is now just supported by the connection to the drain. You might use some marine plywood with a hole cut to the size of the flange pipe, then cut it in half so you can slide the two pieces under the flange. The flange should be anchored to the concrete floor in several places as well.

Some of the pros might have some other suggestions that would work better.