Reusing 1" flare adapter

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Smith333

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The water pipe in my 30 year old house is all copper...except for the galvanized pipe and fittings that service the pressure tank. I would like to replace pressure tank and the galvanized piping, but am wondering if I can reuse the 1" flare joint/adapter on the copper service line. Or should it be cut off and re-flared with a new brass adapter? The current flare adapter is brass, everything else in the picture that isn't copper is galvanized.
 

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Gary Swart

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Copper fittings can be reused. You have to clean them well to get all the old solder out then treat them just like new. Note, when you clean them, there will still be silver coloring from the old solder, but that actually helps get a good joint. That said, sometimes, depending on the cost of a new fitting, it's easier just to replace with new.
 

Smith333

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Thanks for the reply, but I'm referring to a flare joint, not a soldered joint. Can I can reuse the brass fitting that makes up the flare joint on the 1" service line, or if I should cut off the flared portion of copper to install a new brass flare adapter?
 

Dj2

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" I would like to replace pressure tank and the galvanized piping, but am wondering if I can reuse the 1" flare joint/adapter on the copper service line. Or should it be cut off"

- If you are investing big bucks in a new tank and pipes, why do you want to economize on an old joint?

Old sleeves could be still reusable, but they are so inexpensive in relation to the total job, that it makes no sense saving them.
 

Smith333

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I finally got around to replacing the tank. I cleaned the flared copper face, it seemed to be in good condition. I used a new female portion of the flare joint. However, I now have is a small leak on the rear of the re-used flare nut. I'm getting a drip once about every 5 minutes. Should I continue to crank down on the fitting or do I risk cracking it?
 

Jadnashua

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Take it apart and dab a small coating of pipe dope around the mating surface (not on the threads since that won't do much of anything). If that doesn't resolve it, you may need a new fitting. If it is overtightened, it can deform the flared part and unless you get it exactly realigned, it can leak. A dab of pipe dope should seal it.
 

Smith333

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Jim, your advice worked! I put on a dab of pipe dope a couple days ago and it's still bone dry. Thanks!!
 

Jadnashua

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Jim, your advice worked! I put on a dab of pipe dope a couple days ago and it's still bone dry. Thanks!!
I can't claim ownership of that advice...I learned it here and try to carry it forward. Glad it worked for you! I just have more time to respond than some.
 

Kiwi in KC

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I had a similar situation with the replacement of my failed 90 degree main water supply valve, with a flare connection on the incoming pipe.

old main water supply valve IMG_0087.jpg


I wanted to use a more reliable ball mechanism 90 degree replacement valve. After some research, which confirmed that reusing a flare connection should not be an issue, I had the part I needed special ordered from HD, at a very reasonable $34.65 + tax. Here is the manufacturers link.

new main water supply valve IMG_0136.jpg


The original flare connection had pipe dope applied to the threads and I cleaned the female threads to the extent that I could and I didn't apply pipe dope to the new male flare threads as the flare connection seal is mechanical and therefore the threads shouldn't require pipe dope as the seal is made ahead of them.

The new valve did not have a drain thread on it so on the vertical run, approximately 5" above the main water supply valve, I put a T fitting with a washing machine ball valve on it. After installing the 4 new valves & fittings;
  • main valve
  • 3/4" male NPT to 3/4" Sharkbite adapter
  • 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Sharkbite T
  • 1/2" washing machine ball valve
I had the water company come and turn on my main supply in the front yard. Initially all the connections looked good though, due to me forgetting to close the washing machine valve before opening the main supply valve, there were splashes and drips all over the valves and fittings. After drying everything I discovered I had a 5 minute interval drip coming out between the female threads and male threads of the flare connection. I thought a minor tightening of the flare connection would do the trick, however the opposite occurred and I turned a 5 minute interval drip into a 15 second interval drip. I called the water company again to get the water shut off at the meter and then made a quick trip to get some pipe dope. I applied the pipe dope as specified above, "dab a small coating of pipe dope around the mating surface" of the male fitting, and don't over tighten. I called the water company and they turned the water back on and the joint remained dry after a 30 minute observation period.

Thanks Jim & Smith333
 
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