Resin Tank Base Collar

[JTROANOKE]

Hello!
Long time lurker, new member, and avid DIY'er here. Have always done pretty much everything for myself whenever possible, using any and all information available to me before I start the job.

Today UPS dropped off my new water softener. It is replacing a Sears Kenmore compact unit that has served well for 11 years until the brine well developed a leak, noticed by the ring of salt recrystallizing on the floor around it. Given the fact that Sears wanted $200 for the brine well (which holds the entire unit) and the fact that it is a bit undersized and it's age, I opted to replace rather than rebuild.

I purchased a Fleck 1.5 CF unit from Discountwatersofteners.com. It is set up with the 7000 SXT (32mm) valve and a 00 injector, 2.4 gpm DLFC, .125 BLFC and a 10 x 54 tank. All components are Fleck branded, except the resin tank which is labeled Structural.

My question concerns the base on the resin tank. When I unpacked it, it stood slightly off level (crooked collar). As it was preloaded with resin, picking it up and tapping it down was not easy but I got it pretty level. My question is, after installation and filled with water, will the tank continue settling down into the collar with the added weight and time factor? The bottom of the tank dome is an inch or two above the base of the collar. As I am sweating this one in instead of using flex hoses, an inch or so of settlement would put some stress on the fittings. I bought the right angle fittings to allow placement against the wall, so the inlets of the bypass are (will be) vertical. Do I need to try and get the collar on further, or will it stay based on all of you installers experience? I don't want to break the collar, but I don't want to have the fittings break down the road if it settles. Ideas?

 

[Reach4]

With a similar tank, from the bottom of my Fleck 5600SXT controller to the floor I measured 54-3/4 on one side and 54-11/16 on the other. I used a laser level, so I infer my basement floor slopes a bit.However for each measurement, the tape was beside and near the tank , so the two points that the tape measure was hitting the floor were about a foot apart.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JTROANOKE]

Yeah, I am not as concerned about the level as where it will go is slightly sloped to a floor drain. I am more curious as to whether or not the tank will eventually settle all the way in the collar, which would lower it about an inch. That could cause some stress on the fittings down the road unless I don't strap them very well. The pipes I am running to the unit have a lateral run parallel to the joists for about 3 ft before turning down that I could leave unstrapped as long as they don't bang around. I just don't like doing things that way if I can avoid it.

 

[Reach4]

I am more curious as to whether or not the tank will eventually settle all the way in the collar, which would lower it about an inch.

I got that. My thought was that if you measured your distance to the floor and got 54-3/4 you would feel better and if you got 55-3/8 you would investigate further.

 

[ditttohead]

Sounds like you gave it a couple good taps, that is all it needs. The Structural tank bases are not glued so that they can be placed on unlevel ground and simply adjusted so the systems are straight. You should leave some flexibility in the plumbing regardless as the tanks grow and shrink up to 1/4" due to fluctuations in the water pressure.

 

[JTROANOKE]

Thanks for the responses. I am thinking that if I strap it on the vertical leading down to the softener, without overkilling the straps, the 3 foot horizontal run should not matter and will leave some room for growth, and or settlement.

 

[ditttohead]

just make sure the pipes can easily move up or down 1/4" either way without the softener attached to allow for expansion and contraction of the tank. These mineral tanks move quite a bit between high and low pressure. This is why commercial units require the installation of flexible connectors for warranty to be honored. Most modern smaller systems have considerable flex built into the bypass and plumbing connectors to accommodate this movement, but the 7000 only has a small amount of flex built in.

 

[ENIGMA-2]

Why not just use copper flex lines and be done with it? No worries.

 

[JTROANOKE]

just make sure the pipes can easily move up or down 1/4" either way without the softener attached to allow for expansion and contraction of the tank. These mineral tanks move quite a bit between high and low pressure. This is why commercial units require the installation of flexible connectors for warranty to be honored. Most modern smaller systems have considerable flex built into the bypass and plumbing connectors to accommodate this movement, but the 7000 only has a small amount of flex built in.

Will screw the straps instead of nailing and leave a bit of slop. I just want them there as the bypass is a bit stiff. Down the road I will put a proper 3 valve ball valve bypass in and be done with it. Right now, with kids home from college, etc. I don't want to be without water any longer than I have to.

 

[ditttohead]

The 7000 bypass is extremely reliable, ne real need to put a 3 valve in.
I prefer these, Direct connect 7000 stainless flex lines. These are a huge seller for us.

 

[Reach4]

The 7000 bypass is extremely reliable, ne real need to put a 3 valve in.
I prefer these, Direct connect 7000 stainless flex lines. These are a huge seller for us.

Cool. Could those lines connect to the controller if the Fleck bypass was not used?

 

[ditttohead]

Yes, and they are available in 1" and 1-1/4" versions. We are also working on the 5and 5812 version, they should be good in stock in 2 weeks.