Rerouting a vent

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Areefer

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I'm converting a tub to a shower stall. After I demolished the cast iron tub I discovered that the vent didn't go straight into the floor. The vent angles off at 45 degrees into the floor to the drain. This was hidden by the front apron of the tub.

areefer_P1140470.jpg

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The vent is galvanized steel above the 45 and copper below. I want to cut the galvanized pipe above the 45, continue the vent straight into the floor.

To avoid a horizontal vent run, I will need to loop the shower drain in to the back of a tee for the vent. Is this ok?

Thanks.
 
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Terry

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A 45 degree angle is considered vertical in the code.
What you have works very well for a tub. For making it a shower, you should increase the trap arm and trap to 2"
The wye bend is good, you could either replace, or heat the end and use 2" from that point.
 

Areefer

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Thanks for the quick reply.

I'm planning to put in a shower stall, so I'll be using a 2" trap.

My plan is to get rid of the 45 vent. I want to run the vent vertically in the fixture wall into the floor and join it to the drain under the floor.

If I get rid of the 45 vent, I don't believe I can just wye the new shower drain into where it is now. That would result in a short horizontal vent run which I understand is not allowed.

Is it ok to run the shower trap arm towards the fixture wall and then U it into back of the new tee for the vent?
 

Cacher_Chick

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You can bend the drain around to get to the vent, but the line will require an accessible clean-out if your total bends exceed 270 degrees. When venting a horizontal drain, a wye and 45 combo is recommended instead of a tee.
 

hj

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You need a vent if the trap arm exceeds 135 degrees, (270 degres would be 3/4 of a full circle which would normally be a ridiculous drain setup), and should have one anyway, regardless of whether it is "required" or not.
 

Areefer

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So the plan is to join the vertical vent to the drain with a wye and a 45 combo. The shower trap arm will do a 180 into the back of the wye. Correct?

For the clean out - is the 270 total for just the trap arm or does it include all the bends downstream as well? The trap arm is only going to do a 180 to get to the drain.

Thanks.
 

Cacher_Chick

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If the shower is going into an alcove you will have another wall to work with for your vent. As it is, I don't see that you are going to be able to make the radius nor the pitch to connect with what is showing in your picture.
 
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Cacher_Chick

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Can't see what fittings you have used, but I am suspicious. The bends should be long sweep 90's or multiple 45's.

Triple check your pitch, if it's not 1/4" per foot minimum you will have problems.

Add a clean-out tee in the vent line, turned out so that it remains accessible.
 

Jimbo

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To my eye in the photo, I don't see any pitch on the line from the vent over to where it ties into the copper; in fact it seems pitched the wrong way.

That rubber coupling is not correct. It should be a fully banded coupling..
 

Areefer

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cacher_chick - I'm using a street 90 into the wye, a short pipe and then a regular 90. I didn't realize the bends need to be long sweep 90s. I'm not sure if the long sweep 90s will fit. I'll look at doing it with 45s.

jimbo - I think it's just the angle of the picture - the pitch is correct on the drain from the vent to the copper. I thought Fernco couplings were fine for copper to PVC. Is that not correct?

Thanks.
 
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