Replacing tub spout and getting it tight and in position

[JBL]

Replacing a tub spout in a mobile home that was replaced about 15 yrs ago. When pulling divertor knob up, water still partially comes out of the spout.

The plumbing coming out of the wall is 1/2" galv steel threaded pipe and the replacement spout is the same as the I used before.

My problem is I used about 3 wraps of teflon and when I thread the new spout on it works but it feels that it isnt real tight but if I try to spin it another turn, I can only get it about a quarter of the way.

What can I do to get it spun on and in the correct position and be tight.

Thanks for any suggestions

JBL

 

[Jadnashua]

First, I'd consider replacing the galvanized with brass. You can add another wrap of tape, and that may solve things for you. What's this butting up against? Tile, fiberglass, rigid or flexible?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JBL]

It is a flexable plastic tub wall.

I will try a couple of extra layers of tape and then run a small bead of silicone around where the back of the spout meets the wall.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

That galv nipple is very old, the threads are worn down from age and wear. You said the old spout was 15 years old, but the galv nipple is older, whatever the age of the mobile home is.

You can use an internal pipe wrench that will grab the inside of that galv nipple, counter clockwise will remove it like any bolt.

Now you can put a new brass long nipple back in the wall, that is longer than the old one, so your new spout will have plenty of thread.

Most of the time you don't even need tape or dope, as brass nipples are tapered so that it seals up as you turn the spout in more.

 

[Jadnashua]

Tapered pipe threads ALWAYS require tape or pipe dope to make a good, waterproof seal. You might not notice it as a tub only, but as soon as you use the diverter, the pressure will cause the joints to leak.

 

[Terry]

I like using brass, and I still tape on dope them.
Nipples come in 1/2" increments. Plumbers back in the day must have been strong. It would be nice if they come in 1/4" increments.
Anyway, sometimes it just needs more muscle to spin it that extra bit, assuming you haven't bottomed out. There are times when enough is enough.

 

[Jadnashua]

If you're replacing the nipple, then you have two joints to snug up, and it gives you a little more flexibility on where you end up. Some of the cheaper nipples made in China may have rougher threads, and they may not be to spec, either, but that's also true of probably any galvanized one you find these days as well. At least a brass one won't rust.

An alternative is to use two soldered brass adapters on a piece of copper pipe, then you can make it any length you want.

 

[Reach4]

Plumbers back in the day must have been strong.

Maybe they used a cutter and die more often.

 

[hj]

Back in the day, they did NOT have power drives, OR ratchet pipe threader, so they WERE "strong like bulls".

 

[Terry]

Back in the day, they did NOT have power drives, OR ratchet pipe threader, so they WERE "strong like bulls".

My uncle was a high rise plumber, back when everything was run in cast. He was strong.

The project below I ran in no-hub cast. The rain drains were 8". If you look at the picture, the tan lines on the side where they progressivly get shorter, those were decks with drains.

The parking garage was up to 12" cast, but at least that was in the ground and I didn't have to hang it.