Replacing pressure switch

[sjcasheville]

About a week ago, I woke up to no water pressure. Discovered the breaker had tripped and reset it. I then primed the system to 40lbs and everything was fine. Until yesterday......

Again, lost pressure and tried to prime the system by the pressure switch (Pumptrol 40-60). Sparks flew and smoke emerged. Time for a new pressure switch.

Went to Lowes.... no Pumptrol replacement available, but something which looks identical. Looks like a simple job, but am sure there are pitfalls that I can't anticipate. Anyway, a couple of questions:

1. I notice that there is a small lever next to the existing pressure switch which I use to increase the pressure on those times it falls below 40 lbs and cuts off. (Usually in winter). Is this a permanent fixture or do I need to get a different pressure switch?

2. Assuming it's a straight swap, what are the steps to replace? I just checked the pressure at the top of the water tank. It's between 10 and 20. I know I need to get it to 38, but will this happen as soon as I install new pressure switch (with maybe a small adjustment)?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

[NHmaster]

Your old switch had a low pressure safety cutoff and you should replace it with the same thing

Pressure in the tank needs to be increased, you need a compressor to do it

 

[Sponsor]

 

[sjcasheville]

Peter...Thanks for your prompt reply. Are you saying that the Proplumber Pressure switch from Lowes is simply not the correct replacement because it doesn't have the lever or because it doesn't have the low pressure safety cutoff? Or are they one and the same?

Thanks again!

 

[Cass]

one and the same...

 

[Gary Slusser]

It sounds as if you have a pump or cable problem. Possibly a short.

With a multimeter, check the electrical from the switch to the pump. Of course you shut the power off to the system to do that.

The low pressure safety cut out switch is usually used for a low producing well to prevent the pump from running dry and ruining it.

You need to get the air pressure in the pressure tank right, 1-2 psi less than the turn the pump on (40 psi) with no water in the tank. This low air pressure causes short cycling and that could have cost you a pump motor now.

http://www.franklin-electric.com/business/WaterSystems/service/AIM/page-13.aspx

 

[sjcasheville]

Thanks everyone.

OK..So I replaced the pressure switch, pressurized the water tank to 38lbs; turned everything on and.... nothing.

As soon as I hit the breaker switch, it seems to trip again. Any thoughts?

 

[Allen Meyers]

Thanks everyone.

OK..So I replaced the pressure switch, pressurized the water tank to 38lbs; turned everything on and.... nothing.

As soon as I hit the breaker switch, it seems to trip again. Any thoughts?

Weak breaker or the pump. Likely the pump.

 

[NHmaster]

Time to get out the multi meter and check for a short in the wires. If they check out the pump has probably given up.

 

[sjcasheville]

Turns out it WAS a short in the wire from the pump to the pressure switch. Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[Gary Slusser]

Yeah it's rarely the switch. Thanks for the feed back.